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This style of gas cap has been used for years and vents through the threads. Just like caps with a hole in the top they do go bad or get plugged. I question whether the choke rod has been bent unless you have been playing with it. Finally, why are you secretive about supplying us with the...

I’ve never had an insert come loose in my 50 years of experience.

I always use Lotite blue on any threadsert I install,

Here are two suggestions I have in my toolbox. Depending on how bad the thread are botched, will dictate which tool you need. If you purchase a kit, make sure it contains the proper length insert...

Hey Doc, I worked at Toro dealerships since the early 80’s and know where the unit numbers are located. Depending on model, there were at least 12 different engines used, depending on model and how old the model is. The engine numbers are located in one of 3 places. On the flap over the...

Please post model and serial numbers for the unit.

11-13-25. For the last five hours ( just before noon until now) I have not been able to log on. Tells me it is unable to load page, try back later. Just thought I’d let you know.

Sounds to me like you have a fuel or ignition problem. Will need to do a little troubleshooting to figure out which. This is what I would do if it came to me. Get yourself an inline spark tester and the next time you can’t get it started attach the tester and check to see if you have spark...

Star, you’re going to get mad at me, but since my bout with SEPSIS this spring I need to put on weight. Lost over 25 lbs, plus 90% of my body fat and muscle. This has resulted in very little strength and energy. Doctors who brought me back say I can eat anything I want and as much as I want...

Yardman put their name on about 50 different models and the technicians on this site hate guessing. You need to post the model and serial numbers if you want help. Look under the seat for theID tag.

Update, for the last three days I’ve started the unit with only choke, no prime, and it has started on the first or second pull. Has a bit of surge until it gets warm, but then that goes away. Manually moving the governor seems to work, but I’ve got no way to test under load. When I engage...

Update; should have said that I checked the crankcase seals when I checked the flywheel key, both are good. Muffler is fully open. This morning I tried starting the unit with choke but no priming. Started on first pull. Repeated starting the unit this way over the next two hours, both hot...

Toro 15 year old PowerClear snowblower. Model 38581 Serial 29004003. Briggs engine 084232-0121-E2. Problem; will not start reliably, hot or cold. Seems to flood easily. When I get it started runs fine. No electric start so I need it to be reliable for an elderly couple. They can’t pull 20...

I’m think that your starter is Tecumseh part number 37105 which superseded to 33329E. Because I no longer have access to the old parts diagrams, I’m just guessing. Doing some digging parts are still available. Big thing my experience has taught me about these starters, is that the must be...

Maybe this manual will help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

This manual should help you out. I always change both. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV17-CV18-CV20-CV22-CV25-CV22-CV23-CV26.pdf

I really don’t know, probably best to contact HydroGear customer service.

This service manual will help answer your questions. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22447

Before replacing this old mule I would stick a little time and money into cleaning and rebuilding the carb. Replace the float needle and seat, Tecumseh part number 631021B. I’ve attached the procedure I’ve recommended many times on this forum. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb...

Apologies accepted, but for others who post please make sure you double check any numbers for accuracy. It took an hour of searching to figure out the Simplicity numbers with bad numbers on a 50 year old unit. I worked on Simplicity units back in the 80’s and luckily I found some old materials...

I don’t know where to start, as the model numbers you posted don’t make a lot of sense. 1. The 990670 number comes back to a mower deck. 2. For anyone else looking at this thread the tractor model number Is 990653. 3. I’ve come up with a snowblower number of 990663. 4. It uses a belt...

That’s a new one on me, it’s just a pdf file. Everything I have is in that format. Try searching for “Briggs pulsa jet tank mounted carbs” or “Briggs L-head repair manual” and you should find material to help you out.

Have you taken any time to read the section on carbs in the manual I posted??? I’ll bet not. If you find a picture of the mounting gasket, it should answer your question. To help you out it is in section 3, starting around page 29.

Another thing, when I get a 30 year old with this style carb/tank setup, I many times find the tank warpped. Tank most times is NLA so I seal around the carb base with a good auto body sealer.

I’m guessing it is time to replace the pump diaphragm. Also, I would replace the gasket between the carb and tank, making sure it is making a good seal. This manual should help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers from both the tractor and blower so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with. You should find an ID tag on both units.

Not everyone,. If you really knew what you’re doing you would know that the experienced techs on this forum need all engine numbers so we don’t have to guess. DIY guys like you want exact answers with as little information as possible. Bad mouthing techs like Star isn’t going to get you...

Depending on the engine model it not have one, but simply use a diode rectified system. Use this manual to identify which system you have. If you can’t, post back with the engine model, type and code numbers for some more help...

Post your units model and serial numbers. With them we can tell you which switch you need. Many switches look the same, but are very different. If you look at the sides of your switches terminals you will see letters identifying what each terminal is used for. Must replace with like switch...

Check to see if it is Lazer etched into the side of the block.

Besides a plugged fixed jet, I’ve found that over time the float needle tip expands, resulting in a drop in fuel level in the float bowl. Found the replacing the float needle and adjusting float level fixes this problem. Part number 631021B. EDIT: I should clarify added that I set my float...

Here is the wiring diagram you will need. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/66099rzi84-000247/craftsman-917250811-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts Yes a switch can easily be tested, if you are experienced in electrical troubleshooting and understand how the switch works.

Looks like a Simplicity tractor. Simplicity started building NFL and NCAA branded tractors about 1996. If I remember right, I think they were built on the Regent chassis.

I wouldn’t go after the ignition switch before doing some electrical troubleshooting. Making any component assumptions could lead to added expense when not needed. Problem could be anywhere in the wiring and components between the switch and the solenoid. I agree it could be the switch, but...

A multimeter will be your best friend when troubleshooting this problem. If your daughter can get you the model number from under the seat we might be able to find you a wiring diagram to make it easier to troubleshoot.

I think that’s what I posted??

Tape measure would have told us deck size!!!

I’m guessing Husqvarna, sure looks like this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/127360612885 It would have been a lot easier if the OP would have given us the blade size and blade part number. This would have eliminated a lot of guessing on everyone’s part. Must be a new member and new to the DIY...

This manual may help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Are you talking about the cogged timing pulley? This pulley should be tight to the shaft and there is no bearing, which I think you are wondering about. Shaft, pulley, washer and nut all turn as one assembly, when installed correctly.

No, the convex goes toward the pulley, so pres is applied to the pulley not the nut.

If it has not run for awhile, I would be checking the crankcase seals. They may no longer be sealing the crankcase, allowing air to enter causing a lean mixture.

Never seen or heard of it. But I’ve never watch King of Queens.

For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.

Three things that have bailed me out when I run into this problem with Phillips screws. 1. Make sure you have the right size driver. Most often people use a driver which is too small. 2. I dip my driver into some very fine lapping compound, which gives improved gripping power. 3. Soaking...

As a retired teacher do you think i retype this every time I need to use it. There are better ways to use my time.

Before throwing parts at your unit, a good tech is going to follow his troubleshooting procedure to pinpoint the problem. Here is the procedure I use. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools...

In your first picture, between the gas cap and the carb, straight in you will see a bolt head. Might have to clean all the oil and dirt off it. Believe us, we’ve all removed it a hundred times.

This manual might also help you out, especially when you’re reassembling the carb to the tank. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

First the model number you posted is not the same as the model number on the tag in picture #4. What gives? Second, as IL states you need to remove the tank, before you can remove the carb. Third, when you remove the carb I would highly recommend that you replace the pump diaphragm. Fourth...