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Briggs part number 296476 pickup tubes are still available, may have to do a little searching. Also, Briggs carb number 210719 & 210721 are still available, but will have to do a lot of research. Part number will depend on which model, type and code the OP has. I can’t believe that the model...

First, before we can start to try to help you out we will need to have the model and serial numbers off both the unit and engine. Then we can try to find a wiring diagram. Second, how proficient are you at understanding electrical circuits and electrical wiring? Swapping out engines...

Ideal choke position, full choke for starting an no choke for running. I see that you have not taken the time to read over the section on carburetors in the manual I posted. Stop number 8 in my earlier post. CARB NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED

Personally I wouldn’t worry about it.

With all that dirt and crud around the stator, it could also be shorting out through the dirt. Don’t laugh, I’ve seen it more that once.

Looking at your carb, this is what I would be doing. 1. Remove carb and give it a good cleaning. 2. Purchase 2 carb to engine gaskets, part number 27355. Yes, it calls for doubling up on those gaskets. 3. Purchase a new carb to tank gasket, part number 27404. 4. Throughly clean the entire...

Does it look something like this engine? If so there should be a model, type and code numbers on the shroud by the spark plug.

Time master is a single cylinder engine. Three things I would be checking. 1. Did you use OEM belts and check the tensioner to make sure the arm is moving freely? 2. Is the engine running at the correct rpm speed? Should be at 3200-3300 RPMs under no load. 3. Does the governor try to...

I would start by rebuilding the carb with a new needle and seat, part number 631021. I taught my students to use this procedure. I also attached a service manual for future reference...

Personal opinion, I never trust AutoScam parts. Always buy OEM parts.

Two things I would check. 1. Loose engine mounting bolts. 2. Bad bearings in the drive shaft couplers.

Check battery voltage while someone is turning the key to start. I’m betting it will drop below 10 VDC. If it does, time to replace the battery.

Bentrim, I understand what you are saying, but please explain this manual to me. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0272/4689/files/CV11_CV12.5_CV13_CV14_CV15_CV16_CV460-465_CV490-495_DATE_4_11.pdf?v=1668019125

I always try to repair before I replace, but I’ve got parts on hand. Grew up never throwing good parts away. My age is showing.

Don’t buy before you remove the covers. Call the local dealers or repair shops to see if they have them before starting. That way you’ll know if they are around before starting.

Star is correct. Mine doesn’t have a scharder valve, and I forget things like that. Second reason why I use a leakdown tester more than a compression tester.

Bentrim, that tag is for a single cylinder engine, not a twin.

Many of the auto parts stores provide tools at no cost. Might want to check stores in your area. Cheaper than buying one. I own and recommend the second one Doc told you about. I always do the test three or four times to verify my findings. Just reread the OP’s post and I should add that I...

Your guess will be as good as mine and I’ve done many of these. Sometimes they come off clean and other times they’re a mess. 50/50 chance. If it was me I wouldn’t touch it unless I had a better reason than “I want to check “. The choice is yours. Here’s a service manual if you decide to...

This manual shows some engines have a mechanical fuel pump as part of the valve cover.. https://techcomm.rehlko.com/techcomm/pdf/24_690_06_EN.pdf This service manual talks about the electric fuel pump, if that’s what you have. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-01633.pdf

Yes, both Ford and New Holland both had these units. Only difference was paint color. One more thing, the Kohler ID tag you posted should not be on the shroud you posted. That engine was not even around when that tractor was built.

Yes, Lawn Boy went to Tecumseh when they switched from 2-cycle to 4-cycle. I’m assuming (which I shouldn’t do) after reading his first post that he has a 4-cycle engine. Wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong and looked like an idiot.

My ESP, CRYSTAL BALL and PSYCHIC are not working either. That means you are going to have to post the model and serial numbers for your unit before anyone can help you out.

It would be sure nice to know which of the fifty different models Tecumseh produced and which of the fifty different models of Lawn Boy mowers you may have. We need model and serial numbers for the mower and model and spec numbers for the engine. Plus part number for the carb you purchased.

May have been replaced, but that doesn’t explain a single cylinder shroud on a twin cylinder engine.

FORGET IT!!!!??? Guess I just got thrown under the bus, for trying to help. Guess I’m the idiot on this one for using my experience to post manuals for the OP and then told I’m no help, forget it. Can a more experienced tech read post #9 and tell me what I’m missing. Also, please explain...

Star, I’m sorry I can’t help you out, but I’ve learned that if I can’t help, it’s best to zip your pie hole. Like Skimpy said, I to also go to my local bearing/seeal distributor. My last resort is two brothers who are millwrights who have only failed me a half-dozen times. Good luck.

I’m totally confused. A Kohler CV16S is a single cylinder engine. The tag says single cylinder engine, but you say it is a twin. The single cylinder shroud will not fit on a twin. I’ve been working on small engines for over 60 years and have no clue how this thread makes any sense. I hope...

Post a picture of the top of the engine

You will have to double check the engine numbers. A Kohler CV16S is a single cylinder engine. According to the unit specs, that is the engine which goes in a Toro 266H.

Don’t know what you mean by the last post, but here is the engine manual. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

Please don’t post multiple thread on the same unit. Only confuses everyone. Stick to one thread.

According to the serial your unit was built in 1994. This site should have all the information you will need. Service, owners and parts manuals. https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails?id=5296

I’m also regulated to the sidelines on this one. What the OP has, what he posts and experience add up to trouble for me if I contribute to try to help.

Those are not blades turning!! Hydro fans.

First, check the oil level, making sure it is not over filled and smells like gas. Second, remove the spark plugs and see if it turns over smoothly. Report back with what you find.

You must make sure you have the correct belt, buying off AutoScam has been found by the experienced techs on this form to be very sketchy. Most times you get ones that says “IT WILL FIT” buy does not have the same belt geometry as an OEM belt. This might help you out. The Cub Cadet 2166 riding...

According to the manual I posted, the transmission is a Peerless model is 2308A. The Peerless 2308A belongs to the Peerless 2300-series four-speed manual transaxle family and requires an oil bath fill of 64 ounces (2 quarts) of SAE 80W-90 (or EP-90) gear oil.

Google search “Kohler part 2475750s”. Found many available online.

On those mowers I set the governed top speed at 3200 RPMs.

I’m not a fan of customers working on units under warranty, even if purchased at a BB outlet. Have seen way too many times when I couldn’t repair a unit under warranty because the customer tried to save a buck and it cost them big time. Choice is yours though.

Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit. Depending on which model you have, I’m thinking that the RPMs may be low.

I’m agreeing with you, start with the bearings.

As stated above, back to the dealer, don’t void the warranty.

I can’t find that spring on any diagrams. What was the part number you ordered? It is not uncommon to get the wrong parts on AutoScam. I still don’t believe that spring belongs on you engine.

I may be wrong, but I don’t believe that the spring you posted belongs to the engine number you posted. I can’t find it on the IPL for your engine. Are you sure that the spring posted came from your engine? The pictures the Sgkent posted are the governor spring and stop control spring.

Be very, very careful working with Muriatic Acid. Fumes can get you, plus it does react to some plastics.

To me that looks like a governor spring. Can you take a couple of pictures showing the top of the carb?

I’m guessing that rust buildup in the splines is stopping you from removing the wheel. I suggest that you hammer the wheel back down that 3/8”, spray with rust buster, and then using your puller bring it back up again. You may only gain 1/16” each time, which means multiple, multiple attempts...

Does it look like this spring? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/choke-return-spring-location-briggs-12f802-1173-01.470885/