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This may help narrow down the problem: https://encoreequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Encore-Electrical-Manual.pdf :devilish:

Inflation to recommended tire pressures, delivers a correctly aligned chassis, which will results in a level cutter deck (assuming correctly adjusted). Ride on mower tires are notorious for loosing pressure. If a nice even cut is important to you, CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURES BEFORE STARTING WORK...

"I asked Grok about long term (a season or more) effects of blade sharpness." 99% of that just doesn't even make sense, defies logic.I have rarely seen such a load of rubbish, purporting to be a scientific study. Most grasses have evolved to recover quickly from grazing. When an animal grazes...

A sharp blade cuts the grass, a dull blade rips it. " No one doubts that a sharp blade will cut cleaner and with less hp. The question are ( for the average lawn), will the benefit Be significant in the speed of cut & the fuel used? - I say no. Deliver a noticeable difference in cut quality...

Interesting; Balancing I think we all agree its desirable to keep vibration to a minimum, consistent with the usually low quality construction of most mowers and the likelihood that the balance will deteriorate in work, due to damage and material build up. There is no doubt that reasonable...

Okay - What is your rational for the regular sharpening of blades?? :devilish:

If you sharpened less your blades would last much longer.Your training/theories are myth ie not based in science. :devilish:

Many Husqvarnas are now made in China (with B&S engines) :devilish:

I use compressed air on ALL my equipment after EVERY duty. Only takes a few minutes. Not only prevents build up which may cause the engine/transmission to overheat but also prevents wet grass (mowers etc) from fermenting. Grass fermenting produces a strong alkaline liquid which will "eat" metal...

Aaah! Yes we call this a "slasher". Most often a single head, on occasions two or more. We tend to consider the multi heads as "pastur toppers" used in broad acre (larger areas) . They are just bigger, much heavier versions, of your push or ride on mower, powered via PTO from a tracter. I...

You got me. I know what free swinging blades are, not what "Free swinging rotary cutter blades are"?? Please explain. :devilish:

As Slomo said for the traditional wire wound type. However its likly the cable is warn out and any lubrication will only give temporary improvement if, at all - Replace! For the newer cables. Not really servisable. They tend have a friction reducing lining - lubrication will only damage the...

I am not suggesting you try for a Dynamic blade balance, likly completely impractical. I only mentioned Dynamic balancing, to illustrate that in a mower, being obsessive about Static blade balancing, is likly to be a wast of time, due to all the other rotating factors that impact on how much...

Just guessing; If new blade warped, have you installed it correctly? Assuming blade has been installed right way up, you should have a bolt, three washers on one side & a dust cap on the other. Are all fittings undamaged & sitting/fitted correctly (nothing jammed at an angle)? If new blade not...

All good! Some perhaps obvious points when balancing: Clean the blade thoroughly. Use sharpening the first 10-30 mm from tip (less is best) as the reduction in weight, on the heavy end. When sharpening, go for a 45 or more blunt degree edge, as this will last longer than something less. If the...

You can spend all the $$$ you like and wax lyrical about sharp blades being so much better than dull however you can only ignore physics, you cant avoid it. Static blade balancing (thats what you are doing with a nail or fancy magnetic device) is only the start of the balancing jerney. The next...

Full disclosure, I am from the NO blade sharpening camp. I acknowledge that a sharp blade will require less hp to cut, than a blunt. This may translate into marginally faster cutting, but will have almost zero impact on quality of cut. (Note: This does not apply to drum type mowers). The...

Start with the simplest/cheapest possible solution first - Is your exhaust blocked? Turn the engine over by hand (or get someone else to do it). Put a finger /hand over exhaust - you should be able to feel the air pressure rise (as exhaust valve opens) & fall as exhausts valve closes. If you...

I am not familiar with your mower, but having replaced many belts, on may mowers, over the years the common issues are - Incorrect belt (too small). Even if part number appears to be correct for your make/model, it is not unknown for this to be the wrong OR the wrong belt has been packaged to...

Check out this Thread : https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/what-is-the-best-blade-setting-for-a-healthy-lawn.81505/ :devilish:

Random thought: Is the breakage only occurring when your wife is operating the mower? If so, is your wife pettit/light weight? Could be that she is so light, that when she goes from forward to reverse or even corners sharply, her weight is comming of the seat/safety switch, causing the engine...

Dont know what ride on mowers you have - I have no less than 4 (all slasher/horizontal blades type ie not drum). Everyone of which has a deck that will lift above 4 in. They need to do this when being driven from place to place. They can still cut in the max up /transport position. I do have...

Its simple - For most plants (not all) the relationships between the aerial (above ground) foliage, is directly proportional to the subterranean (roots). Scalp (cut your foliage down to near dirt) & you reduce the root system volume & depth of (soil) penetration. Given your clear understanding...

Perhaps you have selected mowers designed to please the operator rather than the grass :devilish:

Maaate! 3' or 4 ' ??? Since when did the natural world give a dam about such minutiae. Unless your lawn is bowling green/tennis court/golfing tee, level/smooth, (which I specifically excluded from my advice) you will only be cutting somewhere between 1-5" as you cut over humps & valleys. 4"...

Straight from the University of Georgia Turf grass Handbook. ".......perform best at a mowing height of 3 inches or more" Thank you for backing up my statement. :devilish:

So? With the exception of some very specialised lawn grases (bowling green, golf tees, etc) the advise for 100mm (4") holds good for almost all cultivated grases. :devilish:

If you have already replaced the belt and the new belt is nice & tight and the mower is still slow, your transmission is on the way out. Replacing pulleys, is unlikely to achieve anything other than a lighter wallet Even if the transmission appears to be a sealed unit, it is likely that the...

Why did you ask, if you are just going to go ahead and mow at height, that will not do your grass any favors (assuming it survives without continual watering) :devilish:

As a general rule; The amount of a plants root system, will be directly related to the above ground foliage. Cut your grass short (scalping) and you reduce functional root systems = lower drought resistance. Farmers with grazing livestock often "practice pasture topping" to encourage even/fresh...

Slomo - Much of what you have said about air filters, I agree with. BUT - When a filter gets to the point of restricting air flow, such that the engine is running rich, the filter has gone way past its clean/replace point. A rich air/fuel mixture will, reduce available power, "fowl" plugs...

No need to remove seals & risk damaging them. For years, I have used a hypodermic syringe needle, with a grease nipple screwed into the (syringe) end to add grease to sealed bearings. The needle can easily slip under, usually the outer, side of the seal. Pump the grease gently, to avoid blowing...

Stick or gauge it will probably need to be calibrated to have any real meaning. 😈

Ask yourself - why do I need to see the fuel level? My unswear would be you don't. You can either just fill the tank to Max before work. If long days, refuel again to Max at lunch time. OR Go the full on geek way (my preference) Fill the thank to Max. Note the time (or engine hrs) Operate...

Not true - The Rotax 9 series of aircraft engines use a remote oil tank and only have one oil pump. In the Rotax the return from crankcase to tank oil is done by crankcase pressure. The oil pump provides pressurised oil to engine bearing/journals/ etc. :devilish:

Sounds like the real deal but why two oil pumps, when one is more than capable of doing the job? :devilish:

I am curious about the Vanguard dry sump / remote tank arrangement - Is is a real dry sump, that you might find in an aircraft/performance car OR just a way of having a larger oil capacity ???

Take your old belt to your local mower shop/ agricultural machinery shop. They should be able to supply a matching generic belt 😈

Why reuse, what sounds to be old/stiff hose?? Just asking for the same problem or worse "down the track". This is is in the category of "pound foolish / penny wise) 😈

If your fuel filter is opaque, ie you can not inspect the media inside, pre-emptive replacement is the only way to go. Annually would seem to be excessive. You have gone for three years, without replacement. I assume your ride on engine is still functioning normally ie getting the fuel it needs...

Your recommended 3 year fuel filter replacement schedule, is bovine excrement A partially blocked fuel filter will only result in reduced rpm/power A completely blocked filter will not allow your engine to start Neither of the above conditions will do any damage to your engine IF your filter...

Noooo! Replace the hose Use quality silicon grease (not the rubbish spray stuff) :devilish:

These days many crankcase oils will be suitable for petrol/diesel. The suitability of the oil has more to do with the chemical cocktail the manufacturer has added to meet new engine standards. Do what the above respondents have advised - purchase the oil your Operator Handbook recommends. Do...

Two points: "Rubber" hoses seem to "weld" themselves to the push on spigot/barb. The older the connection & hose, the harder it is to separate them. The advise about replacing the hose is good. Go for high quality hose, as the hardening over time will be slower ie removing your filter will...

Best speed is not necessarily best economic speed. A common method, to achieve best power setting is for aircraft fitted with pilot controllable carburettors, (air/fuel mixture) will usually have a recommended process for taking the engine to peak exhaust temperature and then either going lean...

I like your drift into MAP (inlet MAnifold Pressure)- As I understand it, MAP is always relative to pressure altitude, which is the combination of atmospheric pressure and temperature, at a given altitude (above sea level). MAP is primarily used by pilots flying IC engines from sea level to ...

B & S Model 305447, Type 0116-B1, Code 11030711 What if any effect, does valve clearance/lash have on engine idle speed? 😈

Its not my call but will pass on your advice. FYI - I am advised this is a "special" engine, developed by B&S for the Toro Twister. It would seem to have an extended & taped crankshaft/PTO, to suit the drive clutch. One engine supplier, I spoke to, said his company had replaced the crankshaft...

Hi ILENGINE, Sorry for the delay in answering - cant find my Tiny Tach. Used a photo/ laser tach - best low idle I can get is about 1500 rpm. Even then it's likly to stall and engine speed not nice & even. Given smelly exhaust (oil consumption?), uneven idle at not very low speed - I suspect it...

From the (non) avalanche of responses, can I take it that no one on this Forum has experince with CV Transmissions??? 😈