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Do those mowers have a Low Oil Pressure Switch? Put a 'Check Oil First' sticker on the engine.. There should be some electronics that won't allow starting unless you do.. GREAT IDEA

Sounds like you may have serious internal Damage. If you hear a knocking sound when you try to start it, the engine is likely toast. Powerwash it externally and see if there is a hole in the block, or where it was leaking. Add some oil before trying.

Use 90/120 Gear Lube. You have bigger problems if you are destroying the Auger Gear Box.

Have you tried checking the Valve Lash? 0.004-6". New Cap and New Low Oil Swtich would be next on my list after cleaning screen on carb inlet.

...and I bet you are a 'trump' fan too..........................

10mm?

Buy a couple New Snap rings First.

WHAT is it? Do you expect everyone to know make model HP size use of everything?

You should NOT be using Teflon Tape for NG or Propane joints. Use the white paste. Proper shutdown, leaving Tank empty, no Fuel in Carb will result in quick Starts.

I have used .030 for decades. It works for me. I will try a Feeler Gauge o.o1o next time.

Business cards are now different thicknesses. I just measured one at 0.030" and is what I use.

Check the Flywheel Key and then Coil clearance (0.030") Then remove Valve Covers and check valve clearance.

You did very Good! Letter to the Company extoling virtues of the Brand and Store.... Tempting to sell it and buy Gas powered?

I never use StaBil etc and Premium Fuel is no longer available in Canada thanks to Woke Lieberals. The cool down after shutting off Fuel Supply is also beneficial I believe. First Pull!

Absolutely Totally Correct Procedure. I only fill the tank 1/2 full but the key is to use the Fuel Shut Off valve every time once you get it running correctly.

Often on Snowblowers 30 seconds of warm up stops the surging. Black Smoke indicates too much fuel. Back off the choke a click or 2 during that time.

Do a load test on the Batteries.

Install the shutoff valve and run the engine til it quits from lack of fuel. Drain Float bowl as some always remains. Done.

Do the Simple thiings first. You were correct in dumping the Crankcase oil. Some residual oilmix may remain in the Intake or Exhaust manifold. Install a fuel shut off valve. Change Spark Plug, perhaps to a hotter one. Did you change Needle and Seat? That is why fuel leaked. Check Valve...

Mulching creates a dense mat that harbours mold, disease and varmints. I do re mow most of my clippings as they are discharged onto unmown areas. When finished, a few passes with the sweeper and Done. I haul mine to the forest nearby.

You have made a great start in overhauling your engine. You are now overloaded with information. It appears to be a fuel problem. Exhaust glowing red hot indicates a very lean mixture or Cam timing problem. Check all Fuel lines. Blow them out (cap OFF tank) outside as fuel will splash. I...

That appears to be the root of your problem. Check Belt tightness and if there is still a problem, remove the mulch kit whatever that consists of.

I suspect the Second from Left Pully has a bent 'axle' . Remove the Pulley, get a piece of 1/2" pipe and carefully straighten the axle bolt. Vertical in all directions.

It sounds to me like you have a seized up part somewhere that is not rotating when it needs to.

You need to stop mowing that dangerous area.

On some engines with an Oil Pump it is where the Pickup Tube is located that governs constant lubrication on slopes. Glad you have it running again.

There is a linkage adjustment near the pedals that can be adjusted for optimum speeds both directions. Speaking about JD X320 and others. Try that Pedal height should be even or the Reverse somewhat higher. Stop mowing steep slopes. You can starve the engine from oil!

I think someone spiked that fuel before or after you got the unit. Check your enemies list and try to get it analyzed. New tank is the best way. Fuel lines too.

RTFM. I am sure the Manual explains this.

This thread should be deleted. Hopeless case.

With the engine warm, drain as much oil as possible. Use and aluminium pie plate to form a trough beneath the Filter.

I digress. The Planet continues to Evolve as it always has. The Ice Age was only 15,000 years ago. Climate change is real but only a tiny percentage is caused by mankind. WE didn't start it and we Cannot stop it. A volcano emits as much crap in an eruption as we do in a Year. Learn to live...

A 21 or 22" will suit you well. You can often find suitable and reconditioned older mowers for $200 or less. Skip the Mulcher/bagger types. 1/3 acre ( 14,520 square Feet) minus home/garage, laneway, trees etc isn't much to mow. Older 3+HP Briggs and Stratton powered (not the newer Chinese...

Only mow when grass is Tinder Dry. After changing the oil, I remove my Deck in the Fall and turn it upside down on a gravel area and pour the used oil into it, swabbing it on all sides and protruberances. Leave it overnite to soak into rusted areas.

Go to a Dealer, get a new one. Done.

Great.

I expect the Flywheel Key is slightly deformed.

No photo but I found on a recent restoration of a LA125 that the trunnions on each side were badly worn on the 'P' Bolts.

I believe at least 2 of the Flat Idler pulleys are loose and need replacement . Put the front deck control arm back where it was and loosen off the Nut to replace it. Level the deck with front 1/8" lower than rear. Belt appears OK.

I suggest a fuel diagnosis. Sounds like it is running Lean. The usual suspects, carb/filters. Check Valve Lash.

Be sure the Bendix shaft is well lubricated.

MAP gas is still obtainable and is much hotter than Propane.

Tire could have been Rotted too........

Leave Rim leak detection for a few minutes before looking. I use Windshield Washer fluid or Snoop if you can get it. Don't forget the Tread and sidewall areas and Valve Core.

Well done. Check the belt for correct WIDTH. To narrow = too loose. Get a new one from Dealer of proper size. Check Spindles and Idler pulleys first.

The Bore looks to be in very good condition. Be sure Valve Guide clearance is adequate. What gauge were you using to check compression. There must have been some! Carefully reassemble, Torque Gaskets and set valves per spec. It should run fine unless there is a camshaft problem. Be sure...

On some machines IF you have a Reverse switch, the wires can rub on the Manual Shaft under the dash and short out.