Charging Problem

Got a Toro ZMaster that blows the charging fuse after 2 minutes of engine operation. Voltage Regulator puts out between 13.5 and 14 volts depending on engine RPM. Stator puts out ~40 volts depending on engine RPM.
Found no shorted wires. Bypassed the engine harness and connected regulator output to the battery (with an inline fuse) and it still blows.
Changed the regulator. Someone suggested I change the battery…did that. No difference.
The only thing I can’t check is the stator wiring. I don’t have the tools to pull the flywheel…or the patience really….

Any ideas?

What is the model/engine model number? What amperage fuse is blowing?

What changed when this happened ? Something caused this

This is a 20 amp fuse right?

I have a Toro 74291 with a Kohler CH740 engine. Toro used a 25 amp charging fuse.

Nothing changed. I was mowing the grass one day and the engine just stopped. It wouldn’t restart. Dead battery. Pullled it into the shop and recharged the battery. Started troubleshooting and found the charging fuse blown. Put a new fuse in and seemed to be working fine but after two minutes it blew.
Checked all the wiring, used a multimeter to look for opens, shorts, and stator resistance. All appeared normal. I replaced the regulator. Same problem. I bypassed the regulator output wiring on the mower, same problem. Bought a new battery…same problem.

It's sounding like a short in the charge circuit. Maybe a damaged wire that shorts to ground? I know you've looked for that, but that's what it sounds like.

Okay the model got me to correct schematic.

Does this occur when the deck is not engaged. IF so check the fuel solenoid circuit and solenoid itself. You can install a temp fuse in the circuit to see if it is drawing excessive current as something is definitely drawing too much current. Can even be a pinched wire.

I know you didn't do it, but nice spelling of solenoid in the diagram...

Start disconnecting items until there is no more shorting slash blowing fuses going on. Test every wire and connector on BOTH SIDES for continuity/shorts/opens. Test the fuse holder and across it WITH a proper amp rated fuse. Remember all circuits needs LOAD testing at max amp draw. Use a clamp amp rated for DC amps. Look for large power draws.

Do you know if the fuel solenoid is a time delay…like two minutes….
That’s how long it takes to blow the fuse…just running at idle. Deck is NOT engaged.