FR651v low compression

Thanks for the advice. I got the mower back home yesterday. It started right up and I drove it off the trailer. The service manager said the mower looked like new and he couldn’t figure out what would make it do what it’s doing. I’ll start doing some things to it soon and keep y’all posted.
 
Glad to hear she is a runner again.

At 7 years old, time for maintenance.

1.De-carboning the cylinder/s. More info in YOUR engine manual.
2.Adjust valve clearance as the others stated.
3.Install new fuel lines from tank to carb inlet.
4.Flush fuel tank/s.
5.Verify strong spark with open gap spark tester.
 
slomo said:
Glad to hear she is a runner again.

At 7 years old, time for maintenance.

1.De-carboning the cylinder/s. More info in YOUR engine manual.
2.Adjust valve clearance as the others stated.
3.Install new fuel lines from tank to carb inlet.
4.Flush fuel tank/s.
5.Verify strong spark with open gap spark tester.
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Good callout on the ignition. At least in my experience, coils love to act up when they get hot. Went thru this with a neighbor on his MTD. Ran great for 10 mins, then just died and was a coil issue.
 
If you just got it back from the dealer and it is running good, DON’T TOUCH IT!!! All you’re doing is saying you don’t trust the dealer and could screw up something.
 
Papalote said:
The dealer charged me a $115 to tell me I need a new motor. Yes it will start but won’t run long.
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The dealer put very little effort into looking at your equipment. The $115 was their diagnostic fee. I am sure you will remember your experience with them in the future for other repairs.
 
You don’t trust a dealer who is standing in front of you, but you trust someone a thousand miles away, who sounds like they know something. I’m out of this one, GOOD LUCK.
 
I trust the dealer. I picked up another mower they worked on and fixed. He also told me how to fix a fuel problem on my M7060 tractor. I like to hear everyone’s opinion.
I understand that a tech can’t spend a lot of time on a machine with an unusual problem. Rivets, thank you for your advice.
 
txmowman said:
Useless? That makes zero sense. Kawasaki’s minimum compression spec is with the ACR taken into consideration.
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Yes it is useless as if the engine has lower cylinder problems it will not show up on a compression test when an ACR is involved.

I did an engine a couple years ago where it passed the minimum ACR compression test. But I did a modified leak down test it indicated a lower cylinder. Disassembled and sure enough the lower cylinder was where any over sizing that could not had been done. So on OHV engine I prefer to use the modified leak down test when I suspect a compression related problem.

Another way is disable the ACR by loosening the rocker until the ACR not longer works then you would get a true compression numbers.
 
Rivets said:
You don’t trust a dealer who is standing in front of you, but you trust someone a thousand miles away, who sounds like they know something. I’m out of this one, GOOD LUCK.
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This is where you got find others that used the same dealer to know if they are honest or not.

I got a few dealers around here that are just plain A holes and lie in less than a heartbeat.
 
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