Recent content by VegetiveSteam

Unless the flywheel is actually touching the ignition module, it could be a compression release issue or a valve adjustment causing the engine to hang up. If you do a compression test and it's over 100 psi, that would tell you compression is too high. Then you just need to find out why.

Are you able to do a compression test?

You may ave it fixed by now but if not, have you checked for any exhaust restriciton?

If you're sure it's a 25 horsepower the 24 755 308-S kit is the only way to correctly fix it if it's an ignition issue. Just to clarify what you have, your SAM should have 2 brown wires, 2 yellow wires, one red, one white and one either green or black. If you look at the back of the SAM you'll...

Yep but next it will be on the new heads.

Almost no question it's fuel. You can usually get them free if you squirt some Kroil/ATF mix in and let them sit. The guides aren't replaceable because they are the parent material of the head. Kohler does make a replacement valve with an oversize valve stem. If the guide is worn, you would ream...

It sounds like you have proved, compression, spark, fuel and no reason to think it wouldn't be getting air. That pretty much leaves timing either ignition or valve/cam. A sheared flywheel key would affect ignition timing. While not impossible, a sheared key would be highly unlikely IMO but...

It's of course hard to say since you don't know how it was taken care of. From personal experience, I can tell you I've seen many Kohler Command twin cylinders engines on mowing equipment exceed 3000 hours. Well taken care of, 4000 hours is not unheard of.

From the factory oil pressure switches on mowers aren't typically wired to kill the ignition. That doesn't mean someone couldn't have rewired it, but they are normally wired to turn on a light as killing the engine could put the equipment operator in a dangerous situation. Equipment that doesn't...

Like you say, blocked oil return at the main bearing or the sleeve bearing was installed without the oil hole in the bearing lined up with the oil hole in the block.

If you're saying it's blowing out of the oil fill while running with the cap off, that's totally normal. To work correctly, the system needs to be sealed.

How did you determine the engine had crankcase pressure?

I apologize if I missed it but what is the AC voltage coming off of your stator? And with the key on, are you getting battery voltage to the voltage regulator? I may have missed this too, but what engine is it?

Disconnect the oil level switch and see if that changes anything. Bad switches were not uncommon on those HM’s.

True. I don't know of anyone killing an engine due to low oil if it has a person also being moved by that equipment. Plus, these work on oil pressure, and this engine will keep good oil pressure with as little as half a quart of oil which we all know is not enough oil. Most oil warning systems...