Recent content by tank1949

If it has an older metal gas tank like mine has, it will accumulate rust and pass the rust to carb. I soaked my tank with muriatic acid, rinsed thoroughly with baking soda/water but still accumulated rust and passed rust to carb. You might be able to find an after market plastic tank.

I can't remember if I am supposed to use a tachometer to set the "H" carburetor adjustment or just adjust "H" to max high speed before it starts to bog down. Any recommendations?

Apparently, after shop did pressure test they didn't connect fuel lines in the proper order but told me it was not cost affective for them to replaced cylinder/piston. After reviewing some videos, I notice my lines were incorrectly installed. I corrected and chain saw cranked up and accelerated...

Spark is fine. Echo primum 2 cycle oil. Saw's instructions say crank in full choke (if cold) and after it starts and runs for a few seconds, depress trigger/throttle. Gas can is built into the saw(plastic) and sealed well. One OEM and one carburetor is Chinese. I didn't notice any line cracks...

I've had this saw for decades. Last year it would not crank and cylinder pressure gauge indicated bad rings or worn cylinder/piston wall. I replaced cylinder head (with piston and new rings) and it fired right up with full choke set. However, when I press the throttle trigger, it releases choke...

Thanks so much!

So if I understand you correctly, order a BAR and chain replacement based on the nomenclature stamped on my existing bar, for a perfect fit? My 20" bar lists .325 80 dl and 1.3 mm. I guess the 1.3 mm is the gauge???

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This might not be the correct forum but I thought I would start here. I have an older Poulan 2375 that was pretty simply to replace bars and chains. There didn't seem to be options for sprocket, bar or chain DLs. I was trying to buy an extra chain and bar for my new 450 but I ran into too many...

I'll try just rings for now (cheap) then if needed new cylinder and piston assembly. THX

THX!!! I thought about at least using emery cloth to scuff up cylinder walls. I was taught that the honing on 4 cycle motors was needed for the rings to seat properly. I am dumb concerning 2 cycle motors. Hum...Ironically, I can still see honing or scuffing marks inside on the ECHO cylinder...

I am confused! I have rebuilt dozens of 4 cycle motors over my lifetime. When replacing rings, we honed the cylinder walls. The SRM 230 is the first 2 cycle motor that will have to rebuild. I have read and viewed other videos showing how to hone 2 cycle cylinders, but they were not specific to...

Check compression to be within specs. Ground plug and have a friend crank motor while you check for spark between plug's gap. If OK, pour a spoon full of gas down carb's throat and crank. If all ok, then take it to a shop....

Me too except gas would cause primer bulb and fuel lines to disintegrate. I use highest octane w/o ethanol that I can find.

Usually very high grass will cause mine (SRM 230) to bind up as well. Try blade on the high/thick stuff.