Recent content by slomo

StarTech to the rescue, again...... (y)

Wondering when changing out the pump, you got the hoses crossed? Pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Check for a solid stream of gas flowing. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water. Ah the ol' NIKKI Six carb. Not a fan of those. Some have good luck with them.

Stop it with all the bypass info please. Safety switches are there for a reason. Having said that......... Tape the plunger down on the switch. Or a zip tie, something that will hold the plunger down. This is for TESTING ONLY. Don't try to mow with it in this condition.

Hope you did the human thing and divulged all pertinent info to the new buyer? Not to start anything but I'm stunned you threw in the towel and got rid of it. Sounded like you were so close to cutting grass. (y)

Was hoping he would replace them but sure, test what you have.

Could be. Or put the tools back where you found them when done.

Typically, this is a clogged fuel tank outlet. Trash in the tank. Could be internally deteriorated fuel lines from tank to carb. Clogged fuel filter. Inline shutoff valve possibly not letting fuel by. Someone using an open top spout fuel can. Passing trash from the can to the mower tank...

True that. Oil is cheap though. Keep her on the full mark prior to every mow.

I would guess at hot. Cold engines require more fuel and will settle in rpm once warmed up. See what the experts say.

Well what is the exact issue then? You seem to be up on your game.

What confirmed this condition please?

If you can't keep a month old mower running return it. Maybe "try" a pair of scissors?

But, you have to fill up more often so you are not saving anything. E-10 has less thermal energy = less HP and torque. In a small engine, that could be big. I cut more grass with E-0 gas.

Agree on the no alcohol. Look around at the pumps next time and several others. Notice most are not using 91 premium. Meaning it has more of a chance to go stale or water down compared to the more popular fuels. Use the most popular stuff you can get. Typical push mowers and 0-turns, 87...

And you already replaced the battery? Sounds like you don't own a trickle charger. Or run the engine at idle speeds only as in not charging the battery up. What engine speed do you run it at?

Wouldn't hurt anything to rule it out completely. Only takes a few minutes. I know, lazy America.

True so true......... Must lap the head and block area where the head gasket sits. Unless you like doing it all over again later.......

How about that new Slime?

None of the shops around here will even look at a battery mower or any battery OPE. Can't get parts and are throw aways one real mower shop manager told me.

Post up some pictures here. Or even better a video.

How cold is cold here? Dead cold, choke plate needs to be fully closed. Read your engine manual about the choke. Do you not have an inline fuel shutoff valve installed? I would get one. Only a couple bucks. Those and good filters go on every mower I touch. So carb was choked up and needed a...

True true. I want to see the spark not some Christmas light with zero meaning about spark condition. Best tool for the job is a PET-4000.

CANBUS is communications area network. As in a buss of specific speed modules communicate on. Talking about OBD2 like coms in cars and trucks. Code scanner time maybe.

Once the plates get uncovered, she is toast. Never had any luck with distilled water or hose water. She died in short fashion once the water evaps. My luck anyway.

2 is plenty for such a small battery. Lower rate the better. Might have to jump it to get some voltage into her so it will charge as others have said. Below will handle what you need.

Maybe if you washed it, might find the tag?

I was waiting on a question to appear.

I doubt it.

Never. Always use the air lift kits bolted to the blade. Best blade and deck on this planet. Will suck up spare change off your garage floor. Nothing from any other brand comes close. Hi-Vac decks roll under towards the blade. Here is a Hi-Vac deck. Even says so on it.

You can but that is not what Snapper used. No.

1.Open the vent on top of the gas cap when mowing. 2. Possible fuel line deteriorated internally blocking fuel flow. 3. Possible fuel filter restriction. BTW, I've ran the low micron filters on gravity fed mowers for years. Starts on the first pull. 4.Trash in the fuel tank outlet nipple...

You want 00 grade grease.

You want 00 grade grease. Typical car bearing grease is NGLI #2. It is way thicker than 00. Use 00 in the rear diff and chain case. 00 has a consistency of pudding. Do not use any other type of gear lube or 80w-90.

That is part of de-carbonizing the cylinder/s in your engine manual. Download you manual and read it cover to cover.

It's not bandwidth. It either loads pages or doesn't. Server error 500 a lot.

Recommend you load test your ignition coils. Should jump a min 0.25" in free air. Right plug might have weak spark???

As long as both cylinders have clean cooling fins and typical cylinder valve/cylinder sealing conditions ect..... Left plug looks "good" BUT main jet is filthy rich. Look at the base ring where the threads stop towards electrode. This is where you size the main jet up. Both plugs are black in...

Clean what you have first. Even cheaper.......

Sealed gas can spouts helps too. Replace all your old open top can spouts ASAP.

This is a good can too.

+1 As well as dirt, bugs, grass and all other junk you don't want in your carb. All you guys using open top fuel cans better get a new EPA sealed pain in the rump spout. Better flush out your can or all that gunk will be heading towards your carb. Briggs makes a good can and spout...

When you own 5 mowers, a top side sucker as you say is a dream. Plus when you tip you can scratch the deck, wheels and handlebar up.

The whole machine is made in China. Cubs are not what they used to be.

They are not listening to Mark Suckerburg. He knew if his servers went down it would compromise the entire effort.

This isn't nipple dot com. Overloaded I would think is a stretch. All 5 of us on here per day.

Some people take a small dope needle and inject grease into the black rubber seal. That fills the bearing with grease. Then a small finger dab of sealant or rubber cement to cover the hole. Right where the RED arrow is at in the above pic. Some spindles not all, have a hollow tube in the...

Looks like a beaver has gotten to it. .

Try a leaf blower or compressed shop air first. Pull the engine shroud and clean the cooling fins, all around the block. I applaud the cleaning effort. Turtle Wax the deck and apply used motor oil to the under side of the deck. Tires properly aired up. Valves ran.

How often do you cut your toe nails?

12.0 needs charged. 12.6 is fully charged with no surface charge on it.

Anyone use Slime yet?

I made a post about constant site interruptions. All I got back was crickets.

Next time test what you have prior to ordering parts. As in place the choke on partially and see how she runs. Surging is typically a fuel thirsty condition. Or spray some juice into the carb throat and see if she levels out.

You might download your engine manual. Read it cover to cover. Lots of good tips on how to properly maintain the engine and make it last.

If you've never done one, I would read up or watch some videos on youtube. Easy if you are comfortable doing it.

Lower the rez down if you get an upload error. Most of the time copy and paste or drag and drop works unless the pic file is too large.

Unless the coil is seriously rusted where it sits on the block. Meaning it would have a poor ground. Pull the coil. Clean and polish her and the mounting areas all up like new. Check for spark. No need to remove rust on the iron part of the flywheel. If you see that much fuel blowing out, you...

Most of the time that is correct. Or if the coil mounting areas are rusted over it doesn't have a proper ground. I like to pull the coils and polish them up. Clean the mounting screws a bit.

But mine are metric LOL (y)

Most alternators or charging coils will never properly charge a battery. One crank of the engine and the reserve gets depleted. Sure you might see 15 volts but how many amps? That is where most are deficient. Put it on a real charger like a Battery Tender brand. That way it's fully topped off...

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. You need air, fuel, spark at correct time and compression.

Any dope be it oil, anti-sneeze or what-have-you will lower your final torque value. So lubed up will require less torque.

20+ year old machine here. If they have a sandy soil, for sure all pulleys are shot.

Lower amp rate the better for battery longevity. Quick chargers with a ton of amps are battery killers.

If under cranking the battery falls under 10.5 volts DC, she either needs charged or replaced. Assuming terminals/cables are clean and tight. Load test the battery for free at any local auto parts store.

You've never read mower batteries offer 1000 cranks. If so it was a battery commercial. Typically last from 3 minutes to roughly 3 years. Nothing set in stone. Most people leave them outside in sub freezing weather over winter. No Battery Tender applied. Best in the winter, pull the...

Band-Aid only. Fix the real problem.

Is this a setup post? Really have to ask that question? If you just want to chit-chat then visit your local nursing home. Those good folks will appreciate it.

If the new belt is wider then the old one is worn, guessing from my keyboard. If you've wore it down that far then the pulleys are suspect too.

To me there is too much slack in the belt. Maybe some Honda experts will chime in. You'd have to look at your parts list and see what all is involved. Then say tug on the belt and see if she slips. Did you use an OEM Honda belt or something off Scamazon?

Scamazon has them for 25 bucks delivered to your door. No deck tipping required.

20+ years old. Maybe time for pulleys. Belt and cable got her going for a touch. Or your cable is not set proper??

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and Hence draining the oil and fuel.

Let's seal the valve cover first before the second stage booster is installed. :D By all means, if a real gasket is offered, use it. Stay clear of RTV if at all possible. Think of the next guy that has to pull that cover off, and CLEAN it all up.

Doesn't help the OP much but this is the main reason why I will never have a hydro mower. Belt drive system is way cheaper, lighter and takes less HP to operate. Oh and way faster getting the mower back in service doing driveline repairs like this. Mower shop will have a hydro drive for 3 months...

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and fuel. So much easier restarting once you are done say sharpening the blade or oil changes. Doesn't foul the plug out either. Probably needs an oil change and fresh fuel anyway.

Fishing scales. Easy right?

If you can't buy it, make it. Shop grinder and maybe a welder.

OEM belts or wonder brand of the week?