Recent content by slomo

Dur dunt ditl dunt dur dunt dityl dunt. My best Dukes of Hazard horn honk. LOL Thanks for letting us know.

I have NEVER done that......... LOL LOL o_O

My guy, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!! (y)

POA is lovely..... LOL Not. Bout like Goosegrass and yellow sedge to name 2. I can kill the sedge in my yard. It will come right back. Guessing the rootball is not getting any herbicide.

Don't know for sure but I would guess at the Briggs Walbro might fit as well. ???? Or be close enough to easily adapt to.

Yearly if not more often is recommended in our manuals. Good man......

Typically surging is lack of fuel delivery as Tiger Small Engine was talking about or a dirty carb. Check there first as he recommended. (y)

You have two of these doing the same thing? LOL

I would change the oil immediately after every mow for at least 4 mowings. Or until, out in the sun, you see, all the metal is gone from the sump. Look AT the used oil with magnifying glasses on. You will see a ton of metal flakes initially. Then another dump or two for good luck. That engine...

That is WAY different than a Briggs Nikki. That looks to be a simple rebuild. Give it a shot. Not seeing any negatives as long as it fits what you have.

Battery needs load tested. It all starts at the battery.

What are you talking about?

Depending on the grass type, might take 2-3 sprays to eliminate your old grass type. Bermuda is one. This could be your old grass coming up you are seeing??? What flavor of grass did you kill off?

Now the truth comes out. Those Nikki's, I've had nothing but bad luck. Bought aftermarket and OEM rebuild kits. Those ultra small o-rings get poorly punched out and leak. Never could get them to work proper. Some guys love rebuilding them and have good luck. Trash can it went. Used a Walbro...

They don't look like rye to me. Maybe they are. Did you smoke off the old lawn prior to laying the sod?

Soil test is a must. You don't just drop sod and expect an instant yard. Root system looks fabulous at 6+ weeks. People like me with hard clay are envious.

Bait out the yard. Fire up the .25 cal air rifle. Fill up the freezer with fresh venison.

Now that I think about it, I might need more like 80-100 grit. So as you say 60 grit should be good. Good tip.

Simply weigh each blade end where the edge is on your scale. An immovable object to place the center of the blade on where the bolt is. The scale and the center support at the same height. Flip the blade and weigh the other side. If you are anal like me, I spend time dialing my blades in for a...

AH sandy soil huh. Try those Oregon G6 blades. You might also dust down the lawn with water prior to mowing. Yup sand kills blades fast.

Do the video again, without the jet plane overhead. I can't hear the music.

I hear you. I would "try" and weld it before abandoning it. You can reinforce the plastic with stainless window screen material or even brass. Makes a good repair. Really an easy job to repair a plastic tank.

Yes this is a big deal with those that have the old style fuel cans. Most of the spouts are uncovered letting all kinds of debris into the can. Just gets passed to the carb jets and the like. Then you get a no-start condition. You can buy a new style spout for your old can. Only a couple...

For the price per bucket they charge, should be flown in fresh from Kentucky LOL.

You can't clean a wheel with concrete. You have to remove wheel material. With that comes what clogged the wheel up. Concrete is softer than the grinding wheel. All you will do is gum it up again. You need a piece of carbide steel or a wheel dressing stone.

Oh man, don't be messin' with some Kentucky.....

I used to do the same. Then I got a precision food scale. Weighed each side of the blade. Noticed how far the blade was still out of balance.

You take a diamond or similar hard device and grind off a layer of your wheel. Starts fresh with new grinding material. Bad thing about wheels is they grind in one spot only. Blade bevels are flat not rounded. Most people see shiny metal and call it sharpened. :eek:

Mine are. No vibes at all.

I still think a hand file is the best way to sharpen. Once you cross over into grinders, one can remove too much material. Course a lot of blades you shop guys see need grinders. Home owners like me, my blades clean up in a few strokes. Too much metal removed gets into heavy balancing tricks...

Again, this is a MUST DO on every air cooled small engine out there. Mowers, trimmers, blowers, chain saws and so on...... Minimum yearly or more often is the interval.

Go get em' Abe.......

Was this overheat or starving for fuel in the turn? As in a plugged fuel tank outlet? Points to a plugged fuel tank or fuel line/filter issue again. Shooting in the dark, not testing what you have is pointless. Heck throw some cash my way. LOL On to something here.......... I bet in your...

And there is fuel in the tank. Just saying........ :D

What is wrong with the one you have? If she is a leaker, one can plastic weld her back up. Really very easy. Done several still holding fuel year round.

Strip the OEM carb down. Separate metal from rubber and plastic parts. Boil the metal parts for 45 minutes. Cheap hot plate and pan. Blow out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Safety glasses should be worn. Carb cleaner burns the eyes, ask how I know. Might take several cleanings. Fuel tank...

Can you not rigidly mount it to something? Better than swinging in air. That will get bounced around like mad. Might even punch a hole in it and start a fire. Run longer fuel lines?

IF you can get the parts, I would fix it. Cheaper than a new 0 turn. Tear it down and post pictures up here. Take pics of everything.

Are they safe? As in bouncing around in 100 plus temps? Later burning the property down to the slab? Is it worth it? Mowers aren't the smoothest vehicles to operate. People living out in the sticks that wait an hour for the fire dept to arrive beware. Put the OEM style in when at all possible.

One thing this forum needs in a huge sense of humor. Rather lacking....... Everyone, have a great $14.99 a dozen egg day LOL.

Do you operate the engine at an idle slash slow speed?

yup.

Can you add a spacer or such to level out the pulleys? Got to be some way to line the belt up better. Stop throwing new belts on it without lining up the pulleys. That is pretty silly. Fix the issue. If you don't have the tool, make one. Make sure the deck has all the parts it's supposed to...

Welcome to the forum 1k. Post up your engine and mower numbers then ask away if you need help.

Going with "what is a bad battery for 200 Alex". All circuits must be load tested as ILENGINE said. As in fully loaded with amps while testing. Don't forget to check all the grounds too. They need some love. Most over looked item on a battery is the - post.

Choke plate closing all the way?

Can we get an AMEN!!!!

You know it's there to SAVE YOUR LIFE right? CO is odorless and deadly. Why would you attempt to bypass a safety device? I'm out of this one.

Throttle plate and choke plate fully open while cranking?

Fix or replace the carb needle and seat. You should pressure test the needle/seat and see what you have. Should hold 7psi for 30+ mins. Lots of youtube videos showing you how to. As ILENGINE said, dump the oil a couple times AFTER getting the carb fixed. Don't try to run it with contaminated...

What up Steve. You will find this is THE best mower forum on the net. Bunch of very smart and wise people on here (not me). Post your mower and engine numbers then ask away.

Buy 10 belts of the same brand, width and length. None will be spot on in those critical dimensions. Stretch them out in your hands and see. Gates, Goodyear blah blah blah.

Try Goliath. Billy is an attorney in that. Good show with lots of hotties.