Recent content by slomo

Total joke my guy. This board is too serious. It was a joke. Just like spark arrestors on trimmers and such. If you say remove one, some folks get all EPA fired up.

Valve arrangement makes zero difference to me Rivets. If the OP doesn't choose to keep his machine in spec that's on him. I actually learned on L-heads. They like OHV's are simple. Listing all the negative side effects doesn't help anyone. Got to crack an egg to make an omelette.

You can't do that on here. It is a felony. People will get upset if you bypass it. :p

Look at the grime on the valve cover. Scared to pull the shroud and look at some cooling fins. Oh and nice air filter LOL. One of those racing ones that flow a lot of air, and dirt LOL.

That is a pretty small O-scope you got there.

Clean the pilot circuit if it has one and adjust the choke proper. Wouldn't hurt to clean the fuel tank like a new one, as in spotless. New fuel line from tank to carb. Make sure you have a solid stream of fuel AT the carb inlet. Drain it in a glass jar. Also look for water in the bottom of the...

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel.

Really think you are jumping the gun here. Set the valves proper. See what you have after. 90psi with a compression release cam, if yours has one, sounds good to me. A Briggs can run on 35psi LOL. Compared to what? Are you sure you are getting full throttle? Would not surprise me that the...

Corrosion has zero to do with magnetism. Just wasting your time. I still knock the rust off when I can admittedly.

Yup. Take your mower and scalp your yard. You will have clippings a plenty or I do on my yard. Tifway Bermuda is tiny bladed Bermuda. Has mountains of clippings each spring. Baggers and scalpers need the fins cleaned more often than once yearly. Only takes a few minutes to pull the shroud off...

Yes yours will work on your engines. Is it the "proper" tool for small engines, no. Will you get a reading with yours yes. You want a stub gauge for small engines. A foot long hose will skew your reading.

Pull off the top engine shroud. Clean the cooling fins as well as the entire engine block. Yearly maintenance in your engine manual. Neglect this and risk engine damage.

Proper valve adjustment on the tight side of in-tolerance would be advised. See what you get after with a compression gauge FOR SMALL ENGINES. Not some 454 chevy compression gauge with a foot long hose.

Agree with Skippy. Once a year wash, no power wash might be okay. Blow off with compressed air and fog with silicone spray. Lube throttle cables and wax the deck. Blow out the cooling fins all around the block area and behind mufflers. Hit it with the backpack blower after every mow.

Used to buy a 750 Holley 3310 vac secondaries for that way back in the day LOL.

Fully agree with this. If your engine oil is at say 275F+, then I can see to start, looking at a cooler. Under 275F I would pass. I like that new German oil called Good-N'-Hot.

Kubota is not coming to your door fixing anything. Might have paint on the pulley causing a slight slip. Look at how much slack you have in the belt. You can order 10 of the same brand, size, color and pitch belts. Kevlar or no kevlar. Every one will be a different size. Be it a small...

I'm all confused........

Get a slightly smaller belt. Or add another spring to add more belt tension if possible on your machine.

Lastly recommend you download your engine manual. Look at the carb area for proper choke operation. These engines have a tricky setup. Once you read it you will understand what I'm talking about. I've bought several of these with the carb linkages all fouled up. Set back proper they run like a top.

Use silicone grease on the O-ring.

AND, AND clean the engine block and head (cooling fins) of all that oily dirt buildup I'm seeing. These are AIR COOLED engines. If you have a mummy wrap of grit and grass, she won't cool down proper. Clean your cooling fins while you are there. Clean fins is a yearly, or more often, maintenance...

Must say the white paint is brilliant. I was worried when you said wire wheel. I would of tried a rust converter first, once I saw the numbers LOL. Or a brass bristled wheel. I use an oily red shop rag to highlight those numbers. That paint leaves zero guess work. Nice job.

Welcome to the best mower forum on the interscreen. Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression are required. 1.Fuel cap venting. Hardly ever the cause. 2.Lack of fuel delivery or dirty carb. Trash in the fuel tank outlet normally covers your main complaint. 3.Stripped flywheel key...

Plastic bag doesn't seal like these new spouts do with rubber gaskets and O-rings. You can tip the can over and not spill any with a new spout.

Or Rolls Royce Aviation for those prices LOL. WOW!!!

For me it's mainly rubber fuel line and trimmer lines that would dry out and crack.

Same here.