Recent content by Sears L2000

You are welcome. I edited the above post to be even clearer on that point. 🙂

A note for the fellows helping an old guy. SLOMO, ILENGINE, and HLW49. Thank you for your posts and information. It is appreciated. Casual users are not always “smart” enough to understand or pay attention, but some feed back is appropriate. The 19hp 2014 B&S Craftsman engine noted in...

THANK YOU to hlw49 from whom I caught enough specific information to ask AI a better lifter question telling me essentially, confirming hlw49, there no need to fix what isn’t broken. I had learned how to adjust a mower with Briggs Craftsman valves. Just figured was Kohler the same idea. I...

Research seems to indicate these CV models used hydraulic lifters and are self adjusting. Having changed oil and filters regularly and leaving the valves alone for 26 years may be why they still work. On the issue of adjustment, maybe “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” applies here. Apparently...

CV15S Type 41592 CV15-41592 Serial # 2930108123 Mower 917.271052 Says 15.5 on side of mower. Manual has 2000, not 1999. Manual cover says 15.5hp Electric Start

2000 Sears Craftsman green mower. 15.5hp Kohler. Never reset valve adjustments. Question: Having done it with a 2013 B&S engine, realized should do it with old Kohler. What would the proper intake and exhaust valve gaps be? Laugh, I know, but it runs perfectly 27 years later. Just...

(1). Interested in a professional opinion, I consulted at length with an electrical component design engineer for a multi national company. His opinion was that the starter would attempt to draw the same amperage from either the OEM style Lawn & Garden 230CCA, OR, from the Marine Deep...

The actual problem with evaluating this issue, besides quick guru surface guesses, is that the normal current draw varies greatly. In a tuned valve adjusted GTG engine with a fully charged battery, the electric starter should draw in the area of 100-200 amps. If fuel, tuning, ignition, valve...

Logical and no argument. As a practical matter, if it’s not useable in a cost free manner such as this, it junk yard time. Been doing the same thing WITH the small battery in place. Figured taking the small one out reduced the available load to just the large battery. As an aside, the engine...

The original 2013 small battery was a Sears Die Hard Lawn & Garden which seems appropriate. The mower is sturdy. The engines are not. The plastic carry handle needs removed and terminals refastened. As neat as I could make it to avoid being accused of Bubba and hopefully of Farm Boy Quality.😻

I have had similar 1999-2013 B&S engines fail due to the compression relief system breaking. Endemic apparently in Briggs engines and they do not care. One was junked since the mower was all worn out. One was rebuilt at expense. The subject engine here has been used for two years after...

🎄HoHoHo! Three steps forward, two backward! After valves adjusted, using screen to turn engine impossible. The similar B&S engined mower junked last summer started most of the time using canned starting ether. And then it didn’t. My wife may be right. I wish she would quit teasing me.\/👁️\/

The engine now runs choke, fast, medium, slow, & idle properly. The compression relief system is definitely Kaput! It will not crank with the mower battery, but if a fishing trolling motor battery is jumper cabled to it, the engine cranks and starts. Things changed: -New fuel line, filter...

No mud daubers nests or other debris in the muffler system visible.