Recent content by Rivets

Provide us with model and serial numbers so we can identify which unit you have. The good techs on this site hate guessing.

5 hours, then use whatever oil you would like to use.

I have found that sometimes using a torx wrench will grab. Not best way to do it, but sometimes you need to think out of the box.

When I run into a unit like yours I remove the battery and then I use jumper cables to reattach the battery wires to the battery terminals. This allows me to access the solenoid for testing. Second, if you are not getting voltage past the solenoid you won’t have voltage to activate the fuel...

Change after 5 hours and you’re ready to go for the season. Today’s valves and rings on small engines don’t need multiple changes for breakin. Save your $$$$, oils going to get expensive.

First thing I would be checking are the battery terminals for cleanliness and tightness. Second would be the ground to chassis connection, clean and tightness. Here is the troubleshooting procedure I use. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1...

Before digging deeper into the possible causes, I would check the valve clearances on all valves. It does sound like a fuel issue, but let’s look at the easy things first.

This site has the carb you will need, but I recommend a little more research before spending $$$ on it. I’ve seen this many times and most often I’ve found the a good carb cleaning and replacing the float needle and seat solves the problem...

Please give us the model and serial numbers off the silver tag on the rear of the engine If this site doesn’t help you. https://www.partstree.com/models/20057-toro-super-recycler-walk-behind-mower-sn-260000001-260999999-2006/air-cleaner-assembly-briggs-and-stratton-122672-0192-e1-0/

West of Lake Michigan, east of the Mississippi River, south of Lake Superior and north or the noisy state. Sorry that’s as close as you get. Got to keep some things quiet.

This manual may help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Ok, now that I know which engine you have, I’ve got two suggestions for the to try. First, as stated you should check to see if the choke plate on both carbs are fully closing. If not you need to adjust the throttle control. Second, I would be checking and adjusting the valve clearances on...

I’ve been working on engines for over 50 years and have never heard of an accurate way to test spark plugs with a multimeter. If I think a plug might be bad I just change it.

Ok, now I feel like a fool, because I ASSUMED what was posted was the truth. Another DIY got me to fall for the switch and bait trick. Looking back I should have realized that things weren’t really as posted. Clue was when he stated timing doesn’t affect spark, good mechanic would know...

I’ve gone to my archives and there are a couple of things you should know about the AV520 engines. First, the AV520 engine was only built as a 3hp engine in 1975&1976, before and after that they were 3.5hp. Second, they were made as an outboard engine, Eske manufacturing was the primary user...

Sounds like you need to adjust the governor. This manual explains how. http://www.gaaged.org/docs/sidemodules/38782_276781SingleCylinderOHV.pdf

You must understand the relationship between the points, condenser, and coil which most work together to produce voltage to cause a spark plug to fir. Timing on the Tecumseh engines with the magneto and points mounted under the flywheel will affect spark. Incorrect timing on a small engine...

You are assuming that the old points gap was the same as what the new points gap is set at. We’re talking thousands of an inch which is very critical. I’ve seen Tecumseh engines run at point gaps ranging from .016“-.022”, depending on how the timing was set. Also, your condenser may be bad...

Sounds like you have a coil which has either a hot short or hot open condition. Next time it happens immediately check for spark.

Not going to get into an argument how the old Tecumseh ignition systems work. Bye.

Sorry, but you are wrong. The cam may be keyed, but the timing is adjusted by moving the magneto assembly. Trust me, I grew up with these engines.

Sounds to me like your timing is not correct. This will happen if you removed the magneto assembly. Timing these ignition systems is not easy unless you have the proper dial indicator. It can be done without the indicator if you have experience in how the indicator is doing its job, but does...

Only if your fuel line is not blocked.

You hold the governor to throttle linkage to fully open the throttle by hand, not using the throttle control. Then you adjust the static governor.

Careful, now this is getting into politics. Not allowed, as you know.

Boy I didn’t think these were hard questions, but you only answered two of them and that doesn’t offer me a lot of help. Can you answer them all in more depth? If not I can’t be of much help.

Your best bet is to start contacting all Stihl authorized service dealers in you area.and see if they have a used one in their used parts.

Maybe one of these service manuals will help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255 https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255

Please provide us with the units model and serial numbers so we can figure out which engine you have. ID tag under the seat.

You will have to give us a lot more information before we can provide you any help. We hate making guesses when we don’t have good information. Please provide us with the following. 1. We need all engine numbers, model, type and code. 2. How long has this been going on? 3. Has the unit been...

On this model two things will cause lockup when pulling backwards, belt too tight or clutch washer and key installied wrong.

These are the best pictures I could find. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

It has been proven the magnetic field flux is not affected by rust.

Need to know if you have any old 18 hp cast iron engine or a newer OHV engine. Please post all engine numbers or a pic of the engine ID tag.

If you would have done what I suggested in post #6 we would have known if it was a coil or not. You may have saved a lot of time and money.

Even if you could get parts, I would be very careful about fixing it, unless it is not major. As stated you need to tear into it and find and verify the cause. If you need to replace one piston, rod, head, etc. it is best to replace both on a twin. This is major. Second, most techs only...

Causes for continued belt breaking. In no specific order. 1. Wrong size belt. 2. Belt not routed properly. 3. Incorrect belt tension. 4. Bad tension arm. 5. Pulleys not aligned properly. 6. Debris getting caught in between pulleys and belt. 7. Bad spindle bearings. 8. Loose spindle...

Glad to hear you got it running, but we’ll never know the cause of the problem, as you just replaced parts until the problem was solved. That won’t help others in the future..

That’s why I asked, as I’ve never seen one an engine over 8 HP.

Are you sure it has one?

No, 90% of the time I will use OEM belts. Only use aftermarket belts when I’m in a pinch. NAPA sells 90% of its belts for automotive use and wouldn’t survive if it relies of belts used in the small engine world.

Then you’ve never had to warranty your work. I learned a long time ago, I don’t want to do a job twice trying to save a buck or two. My rep means more to me and customers keep coming back.

Only way you get better belts is if you take a lot of time to identify the belt material and size. Experience has taught me to NEVER believe what the guy behind the counter says about their belts, at an auto parts store. Most don’t know the difference between blinker fluid and bacon grease.

I’ve gotten to the point that I now give each customer a soft estimate when they come in. Most of my customers say “Do what you have to, if more call first”. 95% are repeat, and 5% referred so they know how I work. Last time I had a idiot was over a year ago. Parts are parts, we can’t control...

Scrub, I agree with you, but have seen some posts that are far worse and nothing was done, even when I point it out. As long as we keep the entire playing field even, I’ve got no complaints. Just about any subject that deals with the government is political, it’s a very fine line.

I’ve been working on mowers for over 60 years and have never seen or heard of 3 wheeled Swisher push mower. Hope someone can help you out, as I’m never too old to learn something new.

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