Recent content by Raiden

Thanks. I understand it now. I made sure to set it at Top Dead Center. I have a clearance of about 0.006 for the intake valve and 0.0098 for the exhaust valve. The clearance on the exhaust valve ended up being a bit too large. I thought I had actually done a pretty good job grinding it down by...

I'm afraid not, because I don't understand what you mean. I turned the upper pulley so that the piston and valves moved. Is there anything I can still salvage here if I did something wrong and it's not right now?

I’ve cleaned everything up and lapped the valves now. The exhaust valve had absolutely no clearance left. In my opinion, the valve guides are still in good shape. The exhaust valve has slightly more play. I’ve noticed now that the exhaust valve opens just a tiny bit every now and then. Is this...

I got back to working on it the day before last; I hadn't managed to find the time before then. I unscrewed the cylinder head and the side cover so the valves at the rear end are visible. The valves aren't sealing properly; they probably need to be lapped. Brake cleaner seeps through slightly...

Could this be the reason for my problem with the difficulties starting the engine when warm?

It doesn't look too good... Is there any saving this? I unscrewed the intake, and as you can see, it's quite carboned up. Can this be fixed? What's the proper way to repair it? I suppose the cylinder head should come off and the valves need to be lapped? Which repair kit (gaskets, etc.) do I...

Thanks a lot for all the tips. It seems there are quite a few things that could be causing the problem. I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. The outside temperature was pretty warm, too, so I’d say it was definitely up to operating temperature. You could actually hear it crackling or clicking...

I have already performed the basic adjustment for the bimetallic arm. When the engine is cold, the arm is at the rear and the choke is closed. When it is warm, the arm is at the front (pushed forward by the bimetallic element) and the choke is open. The engine starts up without any issues...

Thanks a lot for these tips as well; I’ll take a look at this over the weekend, too. What I don't understand, though, is that it starts (with a warm engine) if I push the lever back by hand—against the resistance of the bimetallic lever, which is fully tensioned due to the engine's heat (i.e...

Thanks, I'll take a look at it. But I won't get around to it until the weekend.

I’ve removed the pull-start cord so I can get a better look at the electric starting process. I noticed something interesting while doing so. The airflow from the flywheel pushes the black plastic arm (yellow arrow)—which controls the carburetor's choke flap—out of the way, meaning the choke...

Hello, I have a Sabo 43-vario E lawnmower with a Briggs & Stratton engine (model 124t07 0260 h1). It starts when cold, but won't start once it's warm—even in the current temperatures. If I spray a little brake cleaner into the carburetor, it starts and runs fine. As long as I don't turn it...