Recent content by Joed756

Dude, seriously, replace your plug. It costs $5, it's the likely culprit and a simple job. Forget what it looks like, that doesn't tell you much unless you are checking the electrode for engine diagnosis, you are not doing that. Pop in a new plug and watch your worries drift away.

I'm not sure what this means, but you should consider a new plug. And yes, they do fail internally. I have seen plugs (usually Champion) that look just fine and spark just fine until compression is applied in the cylinder, then things expand and contract and you end up with a spark going around...

Yep, your flywheel key broke, this going to cost you upward of 25 cents to fix.

I've never used soap and water, but I'll give it a try, thanks.

That part where you say "it ran a dozen times" was that this season? Knowing that could narrow down your problem. If the engine has sat through a winter and now it won't start, I wouldn't even consider the valves, it's likely bad gas or the result of bad gas.

Don't start redoing what you've already done. First thing you need to do is fix that pull cord or remove it and use a cordless driver. Now, I haven't seen any mention of compression... you can borrow a tester from an auto parts store, without enough compression the engine will not run, fuel will...

I'm not sure what this means, but you should consider a new plug. And yes, they do fail internally. I have seen plugs (usually Champion) that look just fine and spark just fine until compression is applied in the cylinder, then things expand and contract and you end up with a spark going around...

I would never do this with the head on the engine. Buy a new head gasket and do this job with the head clamped to a bench. You really don't want to have even one little chip of metal roaming around in there.

If you have absolutely ruled out the carb, then exhaust valve and/or rings have to be the problem. Before getting too deep I would carefully inspect the fuel tank for any crap laying around and (I harp on this) the crankcase breather and tubing are clear and not overflowing. .

Look, you can go with one of the well known brands from a reputable dealer and generally be very happy. You can go to a bog-box store, or Walmart or a million other places and buy the brands they are selling. Chances are all those brands at these types of stores are made by MTD. If you take the...

I have succesfully used a window fan laid on it's back across some scrap 2 x 4 s, put my can of carb cleaner, complete with carb right on top of the rig. Those cheap fans are never balanced and they will agitate the fluid very nicely. Works like a charm.

This guy owns stock in Kodak.

You might also want to check for obstruction in your crankcase breather.

Wouldn't that happen with the exhaust valve open, creating an easier path than around the rings?

You can get cheaper than these, but not better. https://www.weknowmow.com/new-models/sarlo-commercial-lawn-mowers-large-belt-drive-1801693493697018840745060

One acre, presumably with at least one building on it. Buy yourself a good Toro walk-behind and get that exercise you (and I) need.

Won't that get you a face full of gasoline?

Inside the cleanest carb on the planet is a very small filter, it's bowl shaped. Work that filter out and clean it, as well as the area behind it.

I'm glad you are too much of a gentleman to comment on the "strap-on" comment.

The crankcase is overflowing with oil that is mixed with fuel because the main jet needle is stuck open. If smelling the dipstick is out of the question, take an oil sample to a lab where they can determine if there is fuel in the oil, but option 1 is much easier.

You might not be able to buy the diode from Toro, but I guarantee you can buy it from an electronics store. Looking at the diode, the color of the diode and the colors, in order, of the stripes tell any retailer exactly what diode you need. Be sure to look at which end the stripes are on so you...