Recent content by ILENGINE

Looks like the belt guide for the engine pulley.. Should mount just behind the pulley with the U shaped area on both side even with the pto pulley on the crankshaft stack pulley.

Actually what will happen is somebody will buy it off of me for $150 and then turn around and spend $600 to fix it. But if I went ahead and fixed it and tried to sell it for $600 they would only want to give me $150 for the mower.

Have a CC LTX1042 right now that was given to me that was actually in good shape. Ran and mowed when I received it. Just needed a couple belts and idler pulleys, and just general maintenance.. Put about $150 in parts in it to get it running and operating correctly. I will be lucky if I...

Seems like in my area lately. It is Mowers that are worth $200 are selling for $200 and still need $600 worth of work.

At least in my area the backyarders and the stuff at the auctions all have the same issues. For what they are selling at and what it takes to repair them are not cost effective. No money left in profit to flip. Example. JD Z950A sold at auction last month near me. Description was...

The gear in the wheel is showing signs of wear and tooth tip curling. So the drive gear and the sprocket may be getting an offset binding which is destroying the drive gear and somewhat the sprocket.

The 45 may very well be your cause. A leakdown test would be a better indicator were there compression is going. Could be valve or head gasket related on the Intek single.

The kill clip should be sticking out of the epoxy on the side of the coil. It shouldn't be connect to the iron core, otherwise you will have the problem that have now.

I have used them on JD, And Cub cadet, and I am currently waiting on a set for a Troybilt that is suppose to arrive tomorrow. So far I have had good luck with them.

Something to keep in mind is the voltage regulator will have a small parasitic load since it must have both power and a ground to operate. That could be your parasitic load, and would be normal as long as it isn't shorted. Should only pull a few milli-amps.

Possibly this would fit to put on a single blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZSNJU6?plpRedirect=mhFallback

@Skippydiesel You will be find with using what you have. Just be aware that you will not be able to remove most of the oil in the system unless you disassembly everything and redrain the system.

Looks like there is a small hole directly under the throttle link to the right of the white bushing on the throttle shaft of the carb. If not there, on some carbs they would connect the end of that spring in the same hole as the throttle linkage.

Skippy you will be fine with modern oils. Oil designation are backward compatible, at least for engine oils. Not so much for gear oils in some cases. Also as long as the main unit is full of oil, the reservoir is just an overflow for efficiency loss. Meaning the hydrostat system operates...

piston down 1/4