Recent content by gbrewer

FOUND IT! Bushing/Gromet Kohler Part Number 25 158 08-S. good luck. Hope you never need one! Thank you all for your time and consideration.

Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Thank you for your input.

It fits inside the hole in the governor lever ON the carb; then the gov linkage arm fits in the gromet/bushing.

I'm talking about the nylon gromet/bushing that the gov. linkage rod attaches to the carb lever.

Speaking of carburetors; there is a little nylon gromet, bushing, in the governor lever. Some carbs I've ordered have this part, others do not. I cannot find a part number anywhere for this part. Can anyone offer help? INFO: Kohler SV610 3213 engine.

It's fixed. Found that the adj. screw for low idle bottom left on rear of carb was MISSING. I had a carb that came in a repair kit; so, I replaced the carb again and all is OK. Numbers: Husqvarna YTH21K46 Mod. 960450026 01, Ser. 063011A021729. Engine: Kohler SV610 3213 Ser. 4113815753 21H.P.

I've done all the stuff. New carb gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, new sparkplug, fresh gas, new fuel filter. Engine starts well, then begins to hunt. Governor lever cycles back and forth. I adjusted the gov setting but problem continues. Carb has no fuel or other adjustment screws but one on top...

After research on blade sharpeners, I saw one American model that cost $269.00. I found a sim looking model on temu for $56.00 and ordered it. I had to do a few little mods at the joints for smooth action. I use a flapper disk 36 grit and get amazing results. Adjustable angles for different...

I have the same mower and the same problem. 1. renewed start switch (old one checked ok for start B+S+A1. 2. Renewed solenoid (old one checked ok). 3. Renewed clutch/brake switch (a real pain in the A**) old one checked ok but was torn up too bad to reuse. 4.Jumped clutch/brake at plug white...

Get the sawsall. Cut through to the main shaft; go 180 degrees and cut again. seperate from the shaft, clean shaft, apply new pully using anti-seize. Heating will damage the shaft seal. This is easier than pulling the engine or replacing the shaft seal.

When all else is said and done-- get out the sawsall with a good metal blade and cut the thing off. I've had to do this with a stuck wheel and axle on a MTD GT1846. Heat will damage the main shaft seal. One cut will usually do the job. If you score the main shaft, use emory cloth to smooth it...

After much research, measuring my friends Craftsman of the same year, I found that I needed to move the K46 3/4 inch back toward the drawbar. In the picture that was posted you will notice a hole in the side of the drawbar and above the transmission mounting "ears". This hole is directly above...

Thanks. I've built new brackets with 3 in. angle iron. I think I've moved the new brackets too far forward creating too much slack in the drive belt causing the belt to slip and loosing torque to the K46. I'll keep you posted on results. I'm going to a friends house and get some real detailed...

Having the same trouble. All started with rear axle mounting flange breaking off. I made angle iron replacements, remounted, changed oil in K46, renewed ground drive belt. I found out that you are supposed to renew oil in trans every 200 hours. Who knew? Renewed drive belt in April this year...