Recent content by D0UG

So installed the new switch, turned it to crank, and blew the fuse. Good grief. I noticed that if I disconnect the small wires from the control terminals of the starter solenoid, the fuse does not blow. I interned to put the old solenoid back on the mower and try that. Perhaps the solenoid...

I got super busy with work and other home projects so just been jumping it off straight from the battery for the last 2 weeks. This weekend I talked to a friend who works in a small engine shop, and he strongly suspects the new ignition switch is at fault. He said they see that a lot with the...

With the ignition switched turned to crank, there is 12V on the green solenoid wire. The white solenoid wire never has voltage or connection to ground. It looks like the white wire should get ground through K2. I have ordered a new K2 switch which I anticipate receiving Thursday or Friday. I...

When I went to exchange the switches, I realized the brake switch was mounted in the wrong screw hole. This kept the button from extending far enough to be fully depressed. l adjusted the switch and now the mower continues to run when the handles are pulled in. I was able to jump start the...

I will exchange the brake switch and the right neutral switch and see if that makes a difference. I don't have an extra switch.

The brake switch and the 2 neutral switches are the same - - Part Number: AM128925. The brake switch SW4 connects to the connector with pink, yellow and white wires. The left neutral switch connects to the connector with green and yellow wires. The 7.5A fuse blew again. I replaced it again...

I already put a jumper wire on the seat switch connector. That is the only way I could manually crank the starter.

The battery is less than a year old, fully charged, and all connections tested. Its not getting 12V to the starter solenoid. I wonder if the new switch is defective. Anyone have an isolation test sequence for the switch? When I direct crank and start the engine, it is like something thinks...

I ordered another K2 but it is expected to deliver about 8/13.

Thanks. I suspected the box in the fuse panel was K2. I went back to check everything again and found the 7.5A fuse blown again. I replaced it and jump started the starter to crank it. The engine runs fine but when I pull either of the handles in, the engine stops. The brake was disengaged...

Well I moved the brake and left neutral handle switches but now it doesn't have ignition voltage even when I crank it with power directly to the starter. I still don't know where the diodes D1 & D2 are or the relay K2. I suspect K2 is the black box plugged into the fuse box but it is not...

Thanks a lot for the wiring diagram. It helped me recognize I witched the connectors on the left control handle and the brake. I will correct that tomorrow in the daylight and see if that helps. There is one diode (D3) on the fuse block. I don't know where these other 2 diodes are located...

After 2 days of looking at this and grass is now knee high, I decided to just crank it straight off the battery so I could mow grass. Released the brake and all was good but when the left handle was pulled in, the engine shut off. The left handle switch appears to be fine but I do not know how...

z335e will not crank. Tested brake, seat, handle safety switches and all fuses. Replaced starter solenoid and ignition switch but will not crank. The old ignition switch was definitely faulty. If I pull up blade engagement button, the belt clutch engages when the key is turned. I don't...