Recent content by Bange

I made a cape to put on the end, but it won't last long, because this piece (#188) has three movements and should be like #202, with pivots.

Looking for a better angle to shoot, I noticed that the #64 axle (pedal) could come out without too much trouble by removing 4 bolts from the rack and 2 from the bottom bushing of the steering wheel shaft... the only remaining slack will go away! ... but I will have to remove spring #161...

I managed to shoot in a good position... You can see the ear with the oblong hole, the brake rod and the clutch belt. In reality, the start of the brake will depend on adjusting the distance between the disc and the brake pads, which is regulated (in my case) by the central screw and on the...

Every country has its problems... we are not technologically advanced, but our agribusiness is excellent and the current government is killing the goose that lays the golden eggs... do you see where this is going? With a democratic narrative that is better for the population, they take upon...

This is a big dogfight... around here Ford closed, GM is extinguishing a shift for 10 months and VW is paralyzing some production lines. The politic is not good, legal uncertainty and currency stability, is and will still push away big companies. In US the competitiveness is great and the one...

What a salad! All to reduce costs and maximize profit... Just a gap that I couldn't remove...junction between #188 and #64, because #64 has welds and I preferred not to change it, but it turned out much better than before. By the way there is another mistake in the diagram...#188 goes first in...

Your comment about the various owners of Murray is interesting... it seems that Murray is an unwanted child, an ugly duckling that nobody wants... So it could be that my deck (Husqvarna) originally came with the machine... and I'm blaming the previous owners. Well, my assessment of my system...

My system is... No threaded rod, bushing... I think it was made during the period when employees didn't know who was going to be the boss...kkk... The adjustment can only be made by the central screw of the brake assembly. And don't worry... as I said before, any opinion is welcome.

Yes Sr. ...🤦‍♂️ Motor Model - 31P777 Type - 0602 B1 Code - 100209ZD Did I forget something? PS.: I just remember that my mower is frankenstein's cousin.

Rod #29...#26 is a spring... But I believe that in fact there is something different that is not showing up in the diagram... I'll clear that doubt tomorrow.

I only identify an adjustment in the approximation of the pads to the disc. And it makes sense to start the brake only after disconnecting the transmission (by belt) from the gearbox. On the pedal shaft, there is an ear with an oblong hole, which allows the brake to be activated some time...

When removing the spark plug, how was it? Wet or dry? If it is wet, the engine is drunk with excess fuel > check the tightness of the stuck inlet valve/float or the spark may not be coming out > check the spark plug wire is broken or leaking spark to ground, coil open or shorted, switch on /off...

As the pedal is unique, the logic is that at the beginning of the pedal stroke, the clutch is activated/disabled and then the brake. Separately everything works, but there is a jump when leaving and a certain delay in starting the brake, seeming that the functions are overlapping. When...

StarTech Your measurements are correct (3/4 x 1-3/8) and there are no common bearings with such measurements... not even in the metric world. A possible solution is bearing 6003 (17 x 35 x 10mm), but you have to rough 2.05mm on the axle, place a shim on the side of the wheel, change the "C"...

StarTech Yes, replacing it with an upgrade is the best indication, but this is another world...either they are not available or they are very expensive...I'll take advantage of the fact that I have my hand in the dough and measure it, because I'm not sure of the nothing originality in this tractor.

In the B&S/Murray diagram, the screw does not exist. Maybe on other models... I don't see how the Torringtons last long as they are open. It is possible that in light use, like golf turf, they last a little longer.

I agree, but since it is not jumping and the gap is still acceptable, the exchange will be for later. The most important thing for the moment was to give a lot of stability to the plate sector, which was rocking... with the screw I put in, it was very firm.

StarTech Show! But in the video I saw, it wasn't a replacement kit... it was common bearings, which are much cheaper around here. I'll take the measurements and see if there is direct replacement or needs adaptation. As for the needle axials, I have a doubt if they are efficient for a long...

There is a little play on the axles of the wheels, I saw some replacing the bushings with ball bearings... would anyone know how to tell me the number of such a bearing?

Today I completed the steering wheel rotation limitation... it is stopping with +- 1/4 of a turn before the previous end... in the sector plate 4 teeth before the end. It worked very well... it's not forcing the draglink pivots, because the limit is now in the plate sector itself. I also made...

Exactly...JD was my inspiration.... 👍

I don't understand fan gear?!?! Are you against the location I chose or the idea of limiting the curve?

Well, trying to solve the excess wheel spin (L/R), I already adjusted the end limit (which is now done in the plate sector, before it was at the end of the gear), adjusted the length of the drags, corrected the alignment and recovered the excess play in a drag, I saw the need to change the front...

Many things happen at a time when we do not assess the consequences, especially when it comes to products, as they are discarded or sold. It would be nice if there was a comparative statistics of results between those who have never used grease, those who always use it and those who use that dry...

Well, the work on the spindles turned out pretty good and it might stay that way until I sort out an adjustable drag. Yesterday, when removing the spindles, I noticed that the bushings are already at the end of their useful life, but I can't reproduce these because they are too thin and I ran...

On the contrary friend, any comment is important, even if it is not in the way of my immediate solution. After completing the adjustment on the spindle, I was able to assess that the best way out would be to make an adjustable drag... but I couldn't gather the necessary material. The adjustment...

Well, I went ahead with the fix on Spindle... Tomorrow during the day I will see the result better. Before After Before After It was relatively easy, but if there was drag adjustment it would be much better.

But the right one too... see it enlarged... the angle doesn't favor it, but it does have a fold.

Do not scare me! In the diagram it appears with the fold.

42L18G60X8A

I'm still hitting the drag... Could you show me the drawing? " This by the way is adjustable as the plate in front of the cross member has slots so you can tighten it . "

Focusing on the cited parts and now with daylight, I could observe some things (with aligned sectorplate) 1 - In fact there is a difference in the size of the drags. 2 - There is a weld on the right side drag (seat). 3 - Matching the drags, there will still have to be a small correction in the...

There are other options... create adjustment of the current drags or straighten the spindles, which seems to me to be the real problem. When the original part is expensive or not available, creativity is used.

See a close-up, but remember that the shild is crooked.

I can't see what you're talking about, but any correction (as I don't have drag adjustments) will have to be on the splindle ears.

I removed the car lift and adjusted the steering wheel (the sector plate is misaligned).

If my draglinks were adjustable it would be easy, but... I'll try hard.

I ended up taking advantage of that hole in the plate sector. I made a bushing, crossed by a screw plus a wide washer and another pressure washer. Now the plate sector doesn't wobble and there's only looseness between the gears... it's excellent. However, when I align the sector plate, the...

My draglinks have no adjustment, they are fixed. My wheels are reasonably parallel and in line with the steering wheel.

Well, even if it's cleaned after each use, the damage is already done... and only the sum of the next use is prevented. The ideal would be to avoid the accumulation of sand/dust... but how to make parts like the ones below? And also between the plate and its support... Or another similar...

I found this material from John Deere... it's not the same sector plate, but it serves the purpose I think. And it can even act as an end-of-course limiter for the steering.

I don't know this technique, let alone dry wax. If it really dries, the probability of sticking dust or micro grains of sand is very remote. But does it create a film that hinders friction between parts (which is the purpose of grease)? ... or acts as a dirt repellant?

Yes, according to the diagram nothing there...but a screw with a limiting sleeve would guarantee more precision and less wobble in the secto plate. Good, sector plate bushing minimal wear...steering shaf bushing, perfect...teeth little wear... Talk more about "I'll bet your wheel have major toe...

After watching some videos about blocking the hitch or non-return of the tensioner pulley on several decks from different brands and even analysis of my own deck/tractor, I am in doubt regarding the placement of grease in unprotected points on the deck and in the plate sector, for example . In...

It doesn't appear on the diagram, but shouldn't there be something helping to support the plate sector in this hole? Another doubt is how much the front wheels turn... it seems excessive to me, even hitting the drag links (LH/RH) at the end of the course. There are ears on the Spindle...

The test drive worked very well... I just had to readjust the height of the deck, as level 6 was too heavy to engage... but the little vibration I still have to solve... As for the unevenness of the blades, I plan to follow in Taryl's footsteps and use precision tools...

For what purpose are you attaching this piece? Make the terrain very flat and continue with grass or turn over the land to plant something different?

Yesterday I was testing the modified deck and everything was working normally, until I noticed a failure in acceleration, characterizing a lack of fuel. I removed the caburator and did a quick cleanup, normalizing the thing and I finished the day without problems. I returned home and this...

Well, now it's a refinement... Today I'm on my micro farm and I'm going to do a test drive... here I still don't have a workshop structure like in my house where I live. Here I still don't have internet or a computer... just my cell phone. Free spindles, tensioner bearings and new passage...

Do you believe this vibration is acceptable?

Well friends, Today I finished the adaptation project… it turned out really well. The deck now rises and falls with virtually no forward or backward variation and no twisting. I put a belt tension adjustment point (which I didn't have), replaced some coupling lever bushings... but the tensioner...