Recent content by 67Camaro

Comparing the original carb idle jet i.d. (.060) and the replacement carb (.025) I've confirmed what several of you have posted. I did drill out the idle jet of the new carb to .060 with a pin vice and drill and the motor ran better but an issue with the needle and seat prevented calling this...

I am certain the gaskets are in good shape and there are zero air leaks. I am going to check the fuel line from the tank and the in-tank pickup, valve setting and governor setting. After more reading and knowing that the tractor runs ok with a load, I am fairly convinced the idle jet is too...

I'm gonna pull it back apart tomorrow and see if something has gotten through the new filter and into the new carburetor. I did not mention that immediately after replacing the carburetor, the engine did not surge and ran through the throttle range very well. It was after I'd parked the mower in...

Not sure what altitude is regular and what is high but I'm in middle Tennessee so.... This was the issue before the carburetor replacement. Regardless, I guess I didn't know different jetting was available for these carburetors.

M# 44N677 Type 0001G1 Code 150526YG 22 h.p. I also checked compression/cylinder pressure and both cylinders are right at 120 psi. Carburetor is new but I guess a piece of crud could be in the new carburetor.

Guess it is a common issue and I've read several posts and watched several YouTube videos. V Twin Briggs in a D140 John Deere. I've replaced the carburetor along with new gaskets, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter. Thought it might be a restriction in the fuel line from the tank so I ran the...

This is a friends mower. I'm going with all OEM stuff. Thanks for the comment.

Just wanted to know opinions concerning parts sourcing. I occasionally work on mowers and usually the focus is on the mower deck: spindles, pulleys, belts, etc. I've ordered original equipment replacement parts and parts from Amazon. I do not really see a difference and have not had any failures...

My neighbor flipped his lawn vacuum cart over while it was running and the engine, a briggs flat head, started smoking heavily. Now he says it will not start so I'm guessing oil was pulled into the carb and exhaust. Anyone have experience with how to go about a remedy? I'm thinking pull the carb...

We have a Gravely ZT 52 zero turn mower we got for cheap. The previous owner "hit something" with it and it died. He then dragged it to the garage. Hydro uniits are free but the motor is definitely locked up. Are these motors relatively easy and economical to rebuild or is it better to just buy...

Anyone out there upgrade to a better tie rod end for these tractors? I just replaced the third set and looking for a better alternative. Thinking about a greaseable spherical rod end but they are pricey. Don't know why JD uses these type as they use "regular" automotive style ends on the...

These are new drag links and I do NOT want to remove them again because it wasn't fun getting the steering gear end apart. It is not a bunch out of alignment but I just thought if I could tweak it a bit with the aid of a oxygen/acetylene torch, I could improve it.

So, after installing the drag links correctly, the front is not aligned as I would expect. It was this way beforehand by the way. I would guess sometime in the past, this mower suffered an impact with one of the front wheels with something immovable. There is considerable lash/slop in the axle...

This is the right side after flipping the drag link end for end. Hmmmm. Gonna advise replacement of both sides as the ends are loose and the link shafts themselves have been cut halfway through by contacting the pulley.

Attached pics show how the drag links hit the drive pulley. The swivel ends are loose but no play/lash in them. It appears, to me, that maybe the drag links were installed incorrectly, right for left. Comments please. I'm gonna refer to the parts diagram and see if a mistake was made in assembly.