LT1000

[Auto Doc's]

Hi Tiger,

Library.... what's that? Books and reading?

The Dewey Decimal System.... Does anyone learn this stuff anymore?

I think AI is a useful tool that people should learn to use but not use it as an excuse (a crutch) to never learn how to actually think and work for themselves.

As a mechanic/technician people/customers think we automatically have all the answers. The trick is that we know where to find the answers without letting them know our secret. This same "illusion" is used in every profession.

Back when I started out in the industry, it was considered taboo to ever let a customer see you actually reading a service manual, now I proudly have the manuals (or printed copies) open and on display when I work. Some customers look puzzled, but others are happy that I am actually doing the job "by the book".

These days whenever I take in a piece of equipment that I am not familiar with, I tell the customer up front that I do charge a diagnostic fee and they need to pay for that and the repair information (CD or book) up front before I begin. This lets them know I'm serious about doing the work correctly.

If they want to cheap out and expect me to provide free diagnostics, I will not deal with them. (They get cheap and my stupid level goes up. LOL) I've lost too much money and time giving free diagnostics in the past.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Hi Tiger,

Library.... what's that? Books and reading?

The Dewey Decimal System.... Does anyone learn this stuff anymore?

I think AI is a useful tool that people should learn to use but not use it as an excuse (a crutch) to never learn how to actually think and work for themselves.

As a mechanic/technician people/customers think we automatically have all the answers. The trick is that we know where to find the answers without letting them know our secret. This same "illusion" is used in every profession.

Back when I started out in the industry, it was considered taboo to ever let a customer see you actually reading a service manual, now I proudly have the manuals (or printed copies) open and on display when I work. Some customers look puzzled, but others are happy that I am actually doing the job "by the book".

These days whenever I take in a piece of equipment that I am not familiar with, I tell the customer up front that I do charge a diagnostic fee and they need to pay for that and the repair information (CD or book) up front before I begin. This lets them know I'm serious about doing the work correctly.

If they want to cheap out and expect me to provide free diagnostics, I will not deal with them. (They get cheap and my stupid level goes up. LOL) I've lost too much money and time giving free diagnostics in the past.

Watched a YouTube video the other day on an ATV. The shop charged $207 to list the issues, but literally not attempt to start it except for just a basic quick try. I charge a diagnostic fee of $45 that goes towards cost of repair unless say, it has low compression and is not cost affective to repair. Dealerships often charge way too much money for the services they offer.

 

[ILENGINE]

Watched a YouTube video the other day on an ATV. The shop charged $207 to list the issues, but literally not attempt to start it except for just a basic quick try. I charge a diagnostic fee of $45 that goes towards cost of repair unless say, it has low compression and is not cost affective to repair. Dealerships often charge way too much money for the services they offer.

When it comes to ATV and UTV's customers will repair their toys. Cost is normally not a concern. A customer that will not repair their Z turn that needs a $2,500 engine replacement won't even blink when writing the check for $2,500 for engine repairs on the UTV.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello M.,

At an ATV dealership (and most others), you are paying for the overhead and a storefront. The mechanics usually get paid little more than minimum wage and they are rarely trained other than watching a few corporate videos.

I came from the repair side of the industry, and it is rapidly collapsing due to "for profit" operations. New equipment sales are the priority, not service.

 

[Freddie21]

Spent days chasing a miss firing briggs 13hp engine. 21B807. 0290 E1. 0512227A. For those in the know. I have given myself the label of "parts replacer" not mechanic, also for those knowing. Or not knowing as is my case.
Only to ponder, was it just the fuel solenoid not operating correctly after I had "Dr" the plug by removing the plastic and attaching the terminals to the solenoid prongs.
Long story, I replaced the entire engine with a "donor", then had the same issue, only to have it resolved easily by swapping out the bad solenoid for a good one.
I have embarrassed myself with the amount of time and money wasted chasing a miss fire or engine pop. Even employing AI to affirm what I was doing was the correct method. To any wondering if AI helps, well, in my case it confirmed just what an imbesile I am when dealing with things mechanical. I hope this helps someone who thinks they know the one solution in a thousand problems, when in actual fact it's one simple problem amongst a thousand solutions.

The first thing to do is to check fuel flow at the carb. If not good, work backwards and clean\replace all items. If good, remove the AF Solenoid and cut the tip off for troubleshooting. Drain the bowl, reattach the fuel line and see if you have flow draining out of the carb. If good, reassemble the AFS and fuel line and give it a try. If it only stays running with carb cleaner sprayed into the carb, then remove and clean\replace the carb. If buying off of Amazon, use only OEM, Stens, Rotary or HIPA carb. I used HIPA and never had a bad one.

 

[Etbrown44]

The first thing to do is to check fuel flow at the carb. If not good, work backwards and clean\replace all items. If good, remove the AF Solenoid and cut the tip off for troubleshooting. Drain the bowl, reattach the fuel line and see if you have flow draining out of the carb. If good, reassemble the AFS and fuel line and give it a try. If it only stays running with carb cleaner sprayed into the carb, then remove and clean\replace the carb. If buying off of Amazon, use only OEM, Stens, Rotary or HIPA carb. I used HIPA and never had a bad one.

 

[Etbrown44]

There is a lot of conflicting advice on replacement carbs. Please note I did not say wrong advice.... Just conflicting or different.

Many guys have had different experiences using Chinesium carbs. Here's one old timers experience: I've replaced north of 100 carbs with Chinesium over the years and not had one to fail. Next you'll hear lots of guys reporting bad luck with them. Note: I don't doubt there are some bad ones out there.

That not withstanding, I like my odds, but even if 2 out of 100 failed or even 5, it would still be worth it to me. Now get ready for "tales of woe"!!!

All the bad luck some others have had won't change this old guy's great luck, especially when they are two thirds or less than OEM!

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello E.,

Around my area I keep getting repeat issues with people using store bought canned pre-mix fuel in their two strokes. I have had to dump this stuff out several times and then purge the carburetor and add my own fresh mix that I keep on hand.

Most of the 2-stroke carburetors I end up replacing have died from failed bad pulse diaphragms from sitting unused for too long. It's not worth the cost of a kit and the labor to rebuild them anymore. Often times the cost of a kit is more than a new aftermarket carburetor.

I have seldom had any issues with aftermarket carburetors in recent years.

With aftermarket single cylinder and V-twin carburetors, most of the time they might need to have the main jets swapped or the bleed are jet resized slightly with a pin drill to resolve a surging issue, but they get the job done economically.

OE carburetor prices have skyrocketed in the past couple of years, so they are becoming less of an option all the time.

Fortunately, most of my older customers are listening when I tell them to spend the extra money and buy non-ethanol fuel. I like repeat business but not for the same fuel issues every season.

 

[rutbuster1]

There is a lot of conflicting advice on replacement carbs. Please note I did not say wrong advice.... Just conflicting or different.

Many guys have had different experiences using Chinesium carbs. Here's one old timers experience: I've replaced north of 100 carbs with Chinesium over the years and not had one to fail. Next you'll hear lots of guys reporting bad luck with them. Note: I don't doubt there are some bad ones out there.

That not withstanding, I like my odds, but even if 2 out of 100 failed or even 5, it would still be worth it to me. Now get ready for "tales of woe"!!!

All the bad luck some others have had won't change this old guy's great luck, especially when they are two thirds or less than OEM!

I've got a 97% success rate with using Chinesium carbs, solenoids, and coils. Unless a customer wants OEM parts, (which most are made in China and always backordered), I get the Chinesium parts. Like I said earlier, 97% success rate. But I only order from certain suppliers in the market too. HIPA, IMO, are one of the top suppliers I use. Even their spark plugs are good...............js

 

[RevB]

I've got a 97% success rate with using Chinesium carbs, solenoids, and coils. Unless a customer wants OEM parts, (which most are made in China and always backordered), I get the Chinesium parts. Like I said earlier, 97% success rate. But I only order from certain suppliers in the market too. HIPA, IMO, are one of the top suppliers I use. Even their spark plugs are good...............js

There is something to be said about Chinese knock offs. In the car world a Spanish made, genuine, Weber 48 IDA carb will go for just over $700 per carb. The Chinese version, exactly the same external and internal and same performance? $125 or so. There are deals.....