2017 Exmark Lazer Z Model: LZX740EKC526T0 EFI Mower Will Not Start - No Clicks.

G

golfcartNF

Member
New member here looking for any help I can get.

I tested the battery, key switch, starter/solenoid, and fuses on this mower, and all are perfectly fine. When you turn the key switch to "on" the display screen goes blank and none of the safety switch indicators even show up on the display screen. When turned to "start" there is no click from the solenoid, clunk from the starter, or anything.
I do not have much experience with EFI mowers at all and am completely lost with this.

Thanks,
Nate
 
Try this. With a fully charged the battery connect your volt meter across the battery and measure voltage. Now try starting the engine. With the key in the start position measure voltage across the battery again. If the th voltage drops below 10.5VDC your battery is bad and needs to be replaced.
 
Now you will have to check each of the safety switches. At least one is not working properly, not allowing current to get from the key switch to the solenoid.
 
This is what I thought at first, but normally, the screen will still have something displayed. I have 2 other Exmarks, so i went out and tested them, leaving one of the safety switches off each time to see if i could narrow it down that way, but the screen never completely went blank. Would this have anything to do with the RED CPU under the control panel possibly?
 
Terminal A key in off position: 0v
key in on position: 2.2v
key in run position: 0v

Terminal I key in off position: 0v
key in on and run position: 2v

Terminal R key in off position: 0v
key in on and run position: 2v
 
Then what the "B" voltage in these positions? You have a supplied voltage problem, now just got where it is dropping out and what is causing. Just more troubleshooting ahead.
 
The "B" voltage is the same as the "I" and "R" voltage.
While testing this though, when I turned the key to "run" i got a faint "click click" from the mower, but it only happened once. I tried turning the key 4 or 5 more times and it didn't happen again.
 
Okay let's try a voltage drop test. Place one meter lead on the positive battery post (not the cable end) and the other on the "B" terminal and have the switch in run position. You be reading near zero volts. If you get something quite a bit higher then either battery post cable is dirty or the cable is faulty. It also could a faulty ground that is causing the problem which in case you try testing the same way except you test from the negative post to engine crankcase. Again you should find near zero volts. Anything else would indicate a grounding issue.

Meanwhile I'm off to the bank and recycle center this morning.
 
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