Yard Machine, 5 H.P., 22" Snow Blower

ranckie

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Hello,
My name is Ranckie and I'm new to this forum. I would appreciate help with a question I have about a 5 H.P. Tecumseh snowblower engine on a 2002, 22" Yard Machine snowblower. The engine model # is HSSK50, 67404S, and the engine family is – YTPXS, 1951BF. When I tip the machine up to work on the undercarriage and leave it there for several minutes, I see oil starting to slowly run out onto the impeller shroud like it's coming from under the drive belt cover, (and from the engine I'm sure). I suspect that the only place it could be leaking from is the crankshaft oil seal on the PTO side of the sump, in other words, a bad oil seal in the sump cover. My question is, does that engine have a regular ball bearing to support the crankshaft or does it use a bronze or aluminum bushing in the sump cover. I have looked at parts diagrams several times and it appears that my engine has a ball bearing but I can't be sure. Getting a replacement bearing should be easy enough at any power transmission store if I decide to go that route. Changing a seal should be a relatively easy task if that's all it needs but if that motor uses a bushing as opposed to a bearing and the bushing is worn, changing the seal will do little good since it will just start leaking again in a short amount of time. I can buy a used sump cover on eBay if that is what I need, and hopefully it would have a good bushing, that is unless I can buy just a bushing for mine if that's what's used to support my crankshaft inside the sump cover. The engine runs great right now and starts in minus10 degree weather with one pull of the cord, (I put a new carb on it). I'm doing this as a fun project on a small snowblower I picked up that my wife wants to use to help me just for the excercise when it snows, (she wanted something smaller since I use a Cub Cadet 26" machine for my self). Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Rivets

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That engine uses a ball bearing, so I would recommend changing the crankshaft seal only. Being 20+ years old it has probably dried out and cracked. I call those engine “MULES” because if you treat them right with a sugar cube ever so often, they will serve you for a long time.
 

ranckie

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That engine uses a ball bearing, so I would recommend changing the crankshaft seal only. Being 20+ years old it has probably dried out and cracked. I call those engine “MULES” because if you treat them right with a sugar cube ever so often, they will serve you for a long time.
Thank you Rivets for that reply. I suspected from the drawings I saw that it used a ball bearing but wasn't sure and I'll bet your correct about the seal being dried and cracked so I'll see if I can find the correct seal for that engine and change it out as soon as the weather gets warmer; (I live in Maine and we just had the coldest two days this area has seen in nearly 50 years, or minus 21 degrees last night; BRRR). It was also nice to hear you say that those engines are tough if shown a littlee bit of TLC. I'll head off to see if I can find the correct seal. Thank you again for your input, it is very much appreciated.
 

Rivets

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Tecumseh part #27897, should run about $5.00. Before you remove the old seal make sure that the crankshaft is sand shiny and smooth. When installing new seal wrap the shaft with Clingwrap to prevent cutting it while you slide it in place.
 

nbpt100

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good work. One common problem with those engines as they age is the exhause valve lash gets too tight and if you are not on top of it it will start to loose power and it may even damage the valve guide if you run too long like that. So inspect the valve lash and as it gets to the bottom of the spec remove the valve and grind a bit off the stem. A glowing red muffler at night is a clue that the valve lash maybe out of spec. Good luck to you and stay warm.
 

ranckie

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good work. One common problem with those engines as they age is the exhause valve lash gets too tight and if you are not on top of it it will start to loose power and it may even damage the valve guide if you run too long like that. So inspect the valve lash and as it gets to the bottom of the spec remove the valve and grind a bit off the stem. A glowing red muffler at night is a clue that the valve lash maybe out of spec. Good luck to you and stay warm.
Thank you "nbpt100" for that bit of knowledge and rest assured that I will keep my eye open for that. As for the really low temperatures we had here in Maine, thankfully it only lasted for two days and now on Sunday, we are back in the mid 30's and for us that is nice and warm. Thanks again.
 

ranckie

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Tecumseh part #27897, should run about $5.00. Before you remove the old seal make sure that the crankshaft is sand shiny and smooth. When installing new seal wrap the shaft with Clingwrap to prevent cutting it while you slide it in place.
Thank you again Rivets for the seal part number, and the Clingwrap tip. I may decide to remove the sump cover to change the seal so I can polish the seal journal on the ctankshaft correctly, using crocus cloth or 220 grit wet sandpaper. If I do that, might you happen to have the torque value for the sump bolts. I've looked around the net but can't seem to find that information.
 

Rivets

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Sorry, but I don’t torque sump bolts. I just make sure I use a new gasket and double check to make sure that are tight. Even if you are removing the sump, I would make sure I’ve got most of the corrosion off the crankshaft for easy removal.
 

ranckie

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Sorry, but I don’t torque sump bolts. I just make sure I use a new gasket and double check to make sure that are tight. Even if you are removing the sump, I would make sure I’ve got most of the corrosion off the crankshaft for easy removal.
No problem Rivets, I don't have to torque the sump bolts if those more experienced don't think it's necessary, and I would alternate the tightening sequence as any good tech would do. I did order a new gasket along with the seal and would have changed that for sure. Removing the sump cover to change the seal will be a pain in the butt, but I don't see how anyone can effectively do a good job of polishing the seal journal with the sump cover in place because the area that needs to polished is recessed. If I do remove it, and it looks like I'll have to, I would definitly polish the outer journals of the crankshaft before removing the cover since that would be easy to do because everything is exposed. Once again, thank you for all of your input.
 

rustycat

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Hello,
My name is Ranckie and I'm new to this forum. I would appreciate help with a question I have about a 5 H.P. Tecumseh snowblower engine on a 2002, 22" Yard Machine snowblower. The engine model # is HSSK50, 67404S, and the engine family is – YTPXS, 1951BF. When I tip the machine up to work on the undercarriage and leave it there for several minutes, I see oil starting to slowly run out onto the impeller shroud like it's coming from under the drive belt cover, (and from the engine I'm sure). I suspect that the only place it could be leaking from is the crankshaft oil seal on the PTO side of the sump, in other words, a bad oil seal in the sump cover. My question is, does that engine have a regular ball bearing to support the crankshaft or does it use a bronze or aluminum bushing in the sump cover. I have looked at parts diagrams several times and it appears that my engine has a ball bearing but I can't be sure. Getting a replacement bearing should be easy enough at any power transmission store if I decide to go that route. Changing a seal should be a relatively easy task if that's all it needs but if that motor uses a bushing as opposed to a bearing and the bushing is worn, changing the seal will do little good since it will just start leaking again in a short amount of time. I can buy a used sump cover on eBay if that is what I need, and hopefully it would have a good bushing, that is unless I can buy just a bushing for mine if that's what's used to support my crankshaft inside the sump cover. The engine runs great right now and starts in minus10 degree weather with one pull of the cord, (I put a new carb on it). I'm doing this as a fun project on a small snowblower I picked up that my wife wants to use to help me just for the excercise when it snows, (she wanted something smaller since I use a Cub Cadet 26" machine for my self). Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
Those snow King engines do not have roller bearings for the crankshaft just the aluminum case for the bearing. When you tip it like you did the oil can come out the breather on the side of the crankcase just below the intake and exhaust port's. For oil to leak out the crankshaft journal it would have too be totally worn out and have allot of play in the shaft and most likely wouldn't run correctly. On the breather port with be a rubber hose that should point downwards. Make sure you only have 19 to 20oz of 5w30 oil in the 5hp engine.
 
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