Won't Start

[luckytx]

Murray Rear Engine Model 30550B. Ran fine til I stopped it. Now it won't start. Battery is 580CCA less than one year old. Multimeter test at 12.7 volts. Starter growls very slowly like it has a huge load but doesn't turn over the engine. Or, it justs emits the dreaded "click". Mower deck has been removed so it is not a bent, broken blade. Spark plug has been removed, and I can turn the engine shaft by hand. Shaft is not bent. I have removed all the safety switches Seat, Clutch/Brake, and Blade; and jumper wired around them. 12.7V between battery terminal and battery side of the two post starter switch/solenoid. When I "short" the two posts of the solenoid with a screwdriver I get a quick spark, but no response from the starter motor. I show 12.7V when I have multimeter from positve battery terminal to the starter terminal while the ignition key is turned to "start". I show 12.7V with meter on positve battery terminal and negative small post on solenoid. A auto jumper cable from positive battery terminal directly to starter post will sometimes make the starter weakly growl when key is turned to start. All battery terminals and connections are shining like a new penney, including thr key switch.

Could anyone advise me of any other tests I can make before I have to pull the gas tank and other hardware to remove the starter for bench test. Please lord, don't let it be the starter!

 

[noma]

Lucklytex Hi

I think you are to the point where you are going to have to take starter off and bench test it i think its in the starter some where.:licking:

 

[Two-Stroke]

If it isn't too much trouble you could try charging the battery. The reading (12.7v) seems a little low and if a charger is handy, why not charge it all the way up?

You could also jump it from a car if you have jumper cables.

Note: I've never had a riding mower -- I'm going by my experience with car batteries.:biggrin:

 

[KennyV]

Welcome to LMF luckytx....

But from what you have described I am guessing your luck may be a bit low this wk... good job of trouble shooting... BUT
Looks to be the starter... remove it and open it up, you will either find a broken magnet or bad bushings...
If it is the starter, look on Ebay they are there a lot, & at great prices... remember they are engine specific, NOT mower specific...
And yes I'm reasonably sure that your post will be moved to a more appropriate spot...
Reply back to this thread with what you find... :smile:KennyV

 

[luckytx]

Two-Stroke. You are correct. Battery is now 12.8V and holding. I forgot to mention that I tried to start it off the truck battery---same result. For the others kind enough to reply, wrong answer. I told you that I did not want it to be the starter! Thanks for verifying what I was afraid to face. Have a good day.

 

[Briana]

Hey there! WELCOME to LawnMowerForum! :biggrin:

I moved your thread to the Small Engine & Mower Repair Forum. You'll get a better response there. :thumbsup:

 

[Trcustoms719]

First try Unhooking the battery and jumping the battery leads rite to a car battery or another good battery.
The battery was ok voltage yes but this does not mean it has a good amp output.
If it still don't start then it's got to be the starter, Try e-bay for a good used of cheap new one.

Good luck!

 

[wildbill]

3 years ago my 42" Craftsman, then 8 years old, started doing the 'ole CLICK thing. Not each time I cranked it, but about every other time. I was cursing the battery. 2 years ago, new battery, it started clicking again, and after a number of clicks it may or may not start. I also checked voltage and it would hold a charge at 13.2 volts at the battery, and 13.1 volts at the starter, but the same growl with the starter barely if at all turning the motor. Smarty-pants me was sure it was the starter so I got a new one and Sears is proud of their stuff. New starter, same thing!!! Long story short..... It turned out to be the battery ground wire connection where it bolts to the mower frame just under and inside the right rear fender. The bolt was tight, but over time the washer between the bolt head and the frame had developed a layer of corrosion and was insulating the connection. Now, never had another problem starting as well as the battery stays up. So, just because a connection is tight.............. Take them off, sand them to shiny, and apply some electrical connection sealant.
You may still need a starter, but just thought this info may be handy.