I have a TroyBilt 21" self propelled push mower and it will not start. I bought it new because I got a deal. I cranked it when I got it and it run great. I already had 2 other mowers so I stored this one for several years. I got it out today and it wouldn't crank. I filled it with gas. I cleaned the carb. I checked the flywheel and coil and they were clean. It is getting fire and gas but will not start. Any suggestions.
Troy Bilt wont start
- Thread starter Dav H
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2017
- Threads
- 250
- Messages
- 6,437
Could post the engine model number?
There is a thread pinned in the New Members section to help you find the mower model number.
There is a thread pinned in the New Members section to help you find the mower model number.
Did you clean the inside of the carburetor? Sorry had to inquire...... We've all seen it all on here.
Most likely a plugged carb from sitting with stale gas for years.
I would pull the fuel line AT the carb verifying good fuel flow TO the carb. Drain into a glass jar.
Most likely a plugged carb from sitting with stale gas for years.
I would pull the fuel line AT the carb verifying good fuel flow TO the carb. Drain into a glass jar.
I cleaned carb and the fuel line is clear. I was thinking maybe a valve could be stuck.
Did you blow the carb out both ways with an air compressor while cleaning? Or just spray some cleaner and call it good?
This is definitely a carb or fuel delivery issue. Discounting any mice chewing on the plug wire?? Was a new mower that was stored for years. Clean and flush out the fuel tank.
Again make sure you have good fuel flow AT the carb.
If the carb is clean, air filter is good and you have spark, this should be a runner.
Take an old spark plug. Gap to 1/4" wide. Ground plug to engine. Pull the rope. Should have a nice blue spark. Check this out and report back.
Amen
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,702
With engines that have sat for a long while with fuel in the carb, usually there will be varnish deposits everywhere clogging up the fine passages .
The other thing that happens is valves stick open or an open valve gets some corrosion on the seat preventing it closing properly.
and the oil drains completely from the rings so there is no seal.
So start by pouring a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole then let it sit for a few minutes , rock the cylinder back & forth a few times then give the engine a couple of slow pulls , with a dud plug in and a couple of quick pulls plug out to expell the excess oil .
The general diagnosis proceedure is to get a can of carb spray cleaner
1) squirt a very small amount down the plug hole. replace the spark plug and give the engine a pull
I always use a known good plug for this, often warmed up in another engine first .
Engine goes bang = timing is OK & valves are closed
Goes bang out the muffler =open exhaust
goes bang out the carb = open inlet
2) depending upon the results do the same down the carb throat
The other thing that happens is valves stick open or an open valve gets some corrosion on the seat preventing it closing properly.
and the oil drains completely from the rings so there is no seal.
So start by pouring a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole then let it sit for a few minutes , rock the cylinder back & forth a few times then give the engine a couple of slow pulls , with a dud plug in and a couple of quick pulls plug out to expell the excess oil .
The general diagnosis proceedure is to get a can of carb spray cleaner
1) squirt a very small amount down the plug hole. replace the spark plug and give the engine a pull
I always use a known good plug for this, often warmed up in another engine first .
Engine goes bang = timing is OK & valves are closed
Goes bang out the muffler =open exhaust
goes bang out the carb = open inlet
2) depending upon the results do the same down the carb throat
Thank you, I will try that tomorrow.
