I have a Honda HRX2174VKA that I bought in September 2013. I am waiting for a new thermowax replacement and also the choke control. I took the air cleaner off to remove the parts and to get a look to see if I needed any gaskets. The gaskets will be OK but while I was in there I noticed that the original wax module was inserted with the pin side facing in towards the engine in it's bore. All the parts drawings I have seen show the pin side facing out in the direction of the carb. This mower has never been worked on for any problem and I am the original owner. It had to have been assembled like that when it was built, right? Which way would you put the new one in???
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Thermowax Change Out
- Thread starter bill18163
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Export threadMy wife just came in the house and told me the lawn mower would not start. I went out and held the choke open with a screw driver while she started it. It started with no problem. But why is it doing this? Why do I have to hold the choke open to get it started? I am still waiting for the new thermowax module and choke control. I should have them early this week. I bought this mower in 2013 and it always started. Usually on the first pull. Why is it doing this eight years later?
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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The auto chokes go bad over time
Well I replaced the thermowax module and the choke control. Mower started right up first time after this work was done. It even started for my wife. Same a few more times and I thought I had it licked. My wife said she tried to start it today and it would not start. I went out to check it out and it would not start for me either. It's flooding. If I take a screw driver and poke it in past the air filter housing and hold the choke open it will start and runs just fine. You can even shut it down and it will restart with no problem. It's only doing this on a cold start. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for or what to do?
Interesting. My generator (manual choke) needs to have the choke wide open on a very warm day for it start.
Honda mowers with auto choke systems work well, even in warm temperatures. So it does not cold start with the choke door closed but will start with the door open. If this is the case, is too much gas going through the carburetor at initial start up and when the choke door is manually opened the gas and air mixture is now balanced? If this is true, would this point to a sticking float?
Before we go off in too many directions, have you ever checked the choke door on your mower after it has sat over night? The door should be closed. Is it?
Why I ask, is sometimes the choke door can stick open and the mower will be difficult to start. Howerver, after a number of pulls, the cord pulling motion frees the stuck door, slamming it shut. By this time flooding can occur. Had this happen on K7 version.
The cheap fix, tap the air filter with an open hand prior starting and listen for the click sound of the carburetor door closing and it starts on first pull every time. I have the parts on hand to do the repair, just waiting for something else to go wrong and do everything at the same time.
Honda mowers with auto choke systems work well, even in warm temperatures. So it does not cold start with the choke door closed but will start with the door open. If this is the case, is too much gas going through the carburetor at initial start up and when the choke door is manually opened the gas and air mixture is now balanced? If this is true, would this point to a sticking float?
Before we go off in too many directions, have you ever checked the choke door on your mower after it has sat over night? The door should be closed. Is it?
Why I ask, is sometimes the choke door can stick open and the mower will be difficult to start. Howerver, after a number of pulls, the cord pulling motion frees the stuck door, slamming it shut. By this time flooding can occur. Had this happen on K7 version.
The cheap fix, tap the air filter with an open hand prior starting and listen for the click sound of the carburetor door closing and it starts on first pull every time. I have the parts on hand to do the repair, just waiting for something else to go wrong and do everything at the same time.
I just went out to check out the suggestion of the last post. The engine is cold, it has been sitting overnight. Opened the air filter housing and noted that the choke plate is closed. There is gas puddled at the bottom of the choke plate and there is a wet trail of gas running down the air filter housing coming from the choke opening. I closed the air filter back up and tried to start the mower. Will not start. What do you guys think??
As part of my earlier post, I mentioned about a sticking float and/or add the possibility that the needle is not seating correctly. This would fit the leaking gas.
I would order a new carburetor ( just put one on my HRR) which was $18 and change. Not worth trying to find out if any part is not working correctly or if any of the holes are clogged, etc. before you order I would check to make sure the various gaskets are okay. Mine were fine, but had spares on hand. You know, the just in case. Hate to stop a project because of a $2 part. Plus, some parts are taking a little longer to get.
I would order a new carburetor ( just put one on my HRR) which was $18 and change. Not worth trying to find out if any part is not working correctly or if any of the holes are clogged, etc. before you order I would check to make sure the various gaskets are okay. Mine were fine, but had spares on hand. You know, the just in case. Hate to stop a project because of a $2 part. Plus, some parts are taking a little longer to get.