Stihl FS 55 R . No Spark

JS1983

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Hey,

Wondering if anyone could help On a Stihl fs55r no spark issue. The trimmer is probably close to 15 years old I would guess. I have never had any issues besides cleaning the carburetor once and I also had to change the primer bulb just recently because the old one was split completely across the top.

A few weeks ago after finishing a day of cutting with it, I went to restart it for just a minute to get a few weeds I had missed earlier. I pulled and pulled and it didn't try to start at all. I thought maybe a spark issue was to blame because it didn't act like it wanted to start at all. The next evening I went out and tried again and nothing. At this point I tried putting a little fuel under the air filter to see if it would maybe start and quit so I could possibly have an idea if it was a carburetor issue, which it didn't really seem like. I got nothing. Compression felt like it always did.

At that point I took the spark plug out and grounded it to the engine and saw no spark while pulling on the starter rope. I then tried another new spark plug and got the same result. I then tried to reset the air gap on the ignition coil with a business card just in case it had somehow moved a little. That is the way I have done it on mowers in the past. I was told way back when I was a kid that was a good quick way to gap a coil. Still got nothing.

So where I am at now is, I have worked on vehicles and other small equipment both, but fortunately I have never had many issues with weed eaters. I am wondering if the coil is bad and if I tested it correctly? Not dealing with weed eaters much, it has me second guessing myself if I tested it correctly. It has two wires on it and I unplugged one at a time to rule out the on-off switch as maybe being the issue. I have had a few times in the past where I turned it to off but the weed eater stayed running. It hasn't happened in a few years though. Was I on the right path in testing it like that? I am not sure which wire needed to be unplugged. I am thinking the front one but I am definitely not sure. I just discovered this site and will try to add a few photos if anyone could take a quick look and let me know if the coil was tested correctly. and could most likely be called out as being the issue and needing to be replaced. The number on the coil is
Stihl 4140 1303A MA-43 2166

Definitely appreciate any help on this. Thanks

PS Just tried to upload a few pictures but I keep getting the message that they are too large to be processed by the server. They were taken with an older samsung phone?! The largest one is only a little over 4mb
 

sgkent

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usually one wire goes back to the kill switch. Make sure that one isn't grounded or chaffed thru. Also check the plug wire to make sure it isn't chaffed thru.
 

JS1983

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usually one wire goes back to the kill switch. Make sure that one isn't grounded or chaffed thru. Also check the plug wire to make sure it isn't chaffed thru.
Hey, appreciate the reply. Wouldn't me unhooking those two wires on top of the ignition coil, one at a time and checking for spark while each one is unhooked take them out of the equation even if one of them is chaffed through? I'm not sure but I figured it would but I may be missing something. I also checked the plug wire like you said and it looked good. Thanks again
 

bertsmobile1

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Yep that is good enough
If there was no spark with no wires connected then the coil is toast
If you decide to fix it make sure you get one from a reliable retailer of small engine parts and not the cheapest one you see on Evilpay or ammozone as a very large amount of what is sold through them is defective, or not labled correctly .
 

JS1983

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Yep that is good enough
If there was no spark with no wires connected then the coil is toast
If you decide to fix it make sure you get one from a reliable retailer of small engine parts and not the cheapest one you see on Evilpay or ammozone as a very large amount of what is sold through them is defective, or not labled correctly .
Hey, Just wondering what each wire is for, for future reference? And just to clarify once more, should I unhook BOTH at the same time and test for spark or only one of them? It has been a few days but I think I tried one at a time and then finally both but I will do it once more to be sure. And yeah I am guessing you have seen a lot of people buying those cheap brands of coils. When I started looking online for one to see what it would cost, I ran across a ton of them and pretty much all of the reviews pointed out exactly what you just said lol. So I am guessing I can't order an oem stihl brand one online then from what I am seeing? If not no big deal, I have plenty of stores and shops decently close that deal with stihl.

Appreciate the help a ton.
 

bertsmobile1

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One is needed to ground the coil if it is mounted into plastic so it will generate a spark
The other is the kill wire that grounds the other side of the coil via the timing chip or grounds completely to stop the engine.
 

JS1983

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One is needed to ground the coil if it is mounted into plastic so it will generate a spark
The other is the kill wire that grounds the other side of the coil via the timing chip or grounds completely to stop the engine.
Yep what I figured. Unhooking the first one I did told me the coil was bad probably. Thanks again for the help.
 
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