Starter won't disengage

Butch2112

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Husqvarna GT48 XLSI the I means that stupid smart switch thing,
. Whole story, cutting grass and the blades stop turning. Go to the house blow all the grass off the deck and check underneath for any problems. Nothing, engage blades seem to be ok cut for a few minutes same thing they stop. Read online this could be caused by a weak battery. Yes battery is WEAK' Replace battery and as soon as the second post is connected it starts cranking. Figure solenoid is bad replace it same thing, soon as the last battery post is connected it starts cranking like crazy. The only other thing I can add is the stupid smart switch never lights up, if it does its so fast unless you are watching it you will miss it. I am about to go crazy on this one. LOL Thanks for any help or opinions
 

bertsmobile1

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Nope
The smart switch is not really that smart
I have rewired 3 mowers to date with a standard ignition key switch.
And they are not cheap to replace .
 

Butch2112

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You are correct sir smart switch 90 to 200 bucks on line. Swapping out to a key seems the best option $$ wise. Could you please give me just a tad more info, Not sure what wire would go where when replacing the switch
 

bertsmobile1

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Not a job for the electrical illiterate .
Please post your full model & serial numbers so I can pull up a wiring diagram.
The ones I replaced were on locally branded mowers and each was slightly different.
Unlike autos, there is no common wiring colour code
Some manufacturers will even vary the colours from one model to the next .
And there are a dozen different key switches so it is a matter of finding the right one .
How well do you understand basic DC circuitry ?
 

Butch2112

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I am a journeyman electrician so I can read line drawings, However in school they taught us DC wiring is some type of witchcraft and nothing they teach us applies. LOL colors mean nothing. Here is all the info if you need more let me know what.
Model GT48KLSi 960430 / 177 00 Ser# 041316A005956
Today when I went to remove the switch it was very warm so I am pretty sure that's not normal. Thanks again
 

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bertsmobile1

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Excellent so you will be able to work your way through it .
So many people fall to pieces the instant they look at a wire , must be the witches spells .
The only thing that is vital to do is remove the blower housing and take the kill wires off the magnetos.
They use a Hall effect chip to time the sparks and if it ever sees battery voltage you fry it $$$$
So once all done I start the mower & run through all of the controls with a test lamp between the kill wire & ground and check that it never flashes .
The wiring diagram is the first page of the IPL which can be downloaded from Husqvarna directly
Had a quick look at it and not a big deal but you will have to add some terminals to the Brake/Clutch switch plug & the PTO switch plug and a toggle for the MIR circuit.
It will need to be wired according to a pre smart switch diagram circuit and GT48DXLS CARB / 96043023300 ( 2017) seem to be the last one with standard wiring .
The cranking circuit is a daisy chain
Key switch > PTO switch > parking brake switch > solenoid trigger wire .
Ignition is 2 circuits
Magneto + Ground ( open to run closed when off )
Battery + carb solenoid
And the safety circuits
Seat + PTO + magneto
Seat + parking brake + magneto
RIO + PTO + magneto
are all parallel
 

Butch2112

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You are awesome ( for a witch) Going to work on it Saturday, no reason to rush. Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. Thank you again for the direction.
 

bertsmobile1

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There is about an hour of actual work in it after you have done the research.
I usually charge out 2 hours labour + parts
You will also need an uninsulated spade terminal crimping tool to crimp the terminals that go into the plugs.
If you get stuck you can PM me or post.
Because most have troubles with wiring and because some seem to think bypassing all safety switches in a blow for personal liberty , I try not to post specific details on the forum.
On top of that every one I have done was different.
No doubt the whole Smart Switch fiasco came about because an ambulance chasing lawyer got a massive payment awarded against Husqvarna because on of the above mentioned idiots managed to modify a mower then do physical damage to himself or others .

Most aftermarket parts suppliers do Key switches substantially cheaper but the new supplier Stens is using no longer has the terminals marked B,G,S,A,M etc which makes it a little tricky,
I normally use a 7 pin switch simply because I got a box of the correct 7 pin plugs off ebay but if you use the part number of the "dumb" switch from the earlier GT 48 you should be fine.
Some mowers use relays so the kill circuits are powered and again if you mix the switches & send 12V to the magnetos it is big $$$ time.
 
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