I read your message on bleeding air from lines for a IS 1500. Followed inst. checked fluid and it was milky with bubbles. Right rear goes great forward , slower in reverse while on jacks. When on ground nothing from right side. Left very strong. Do I have a bad wheel motor, or is there anything else I can check.
replace hydro fluid
- Thread starter jrink
- Start date
sgkent
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2017
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 1,679
there was just another thread on something like this and the cover was on 180 degrees off. Does that apply to what you did? https://lawnmowerforum.com/threads/hydro-gear-rebuild.68050/
No that's doesn't pertain to my problem. The mower has been sitting in my garage for the last 6 mos. I had a busted hose and lost all fluids. Fixed hoses and changed filter, added oil ran worked control arms 10 times front and reverse. Kept checking oil level, no change in color. Then found out I needed to bleed the the lines by opening valves. Did that and went through steps again. Checked oil it was milky and with foam. Was told that was from water in system. Don't see how water would be in system since garaged. Have no idea how to proceed at this point.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,702
Fluids do not pull very well they need to be pushed
Air compresses in the pump & motors rather than purging out
Some times it can take forever to replace all of the air in the lines & internals with oil
A few things will help
1) run the engine as slow as it will go , this reduces frothing
2) have both wheels clear of the ground , this reduced the resistance to moving as low as it can go which aids oil flowing rather than air compressing
3) open bypass valves , same as 2 above
In some cases I have needed to attach a vacuum pump ( sump pump ) to a breather / expansion tank to suck the air out
The worst I had was a Husqvrna ProRider that used a full tank of fuel before the oil replaced all of the air
So that was a case of purge for about 1/2 hour, leave it sand till cold then purge for about 1/2 hour .
From memory that process was repeated for a full week before I got full power to the wheels .
I have no idea why some purge in 5 minutes & other take 5 days but they do
Air compresses in the pump & motors rather than purging out
Some times it can take forever to replace all of the air in the lines & internals with oil
A few things will help
1) run the engine as slow as it will go , this reduces frothing
2) have both wheels clear of the ground , this reduced the resistance to moving as low as it can go which aids oil flowing rather than air compressing
3) open bypass valves , same as 2 above
In some cases I have needed to attach a vacuum pump ( sump pump ) to a breather / expansion tank to suck the air out
The worst I had was a Husqvrna ProRider that used a full tank of fuel before the oil replaced all of the air
So that was a case of purge for about 1/2 hour, leave it sand till cold then purge for about 1/2 hour .
From memory that process was repeated for a full week before I got full power to the wheels .
I have no idea why some purge in 5 minutes & other take 5 days but they do