PP175 battery dying during use. Have to jump off regularly

[pvols1979]

Hello, everyone. This is my first time to this forum. I own a PP175G42 and I have been having some issues with the charging of the battery during use. I can put a brand new battery in and cut the yard and the first time I stop it, I have to jump it off. I have inspected the wiring and I see one potential issue. I have also replaced the ignition switch and no resolution. The potential issue with the wiring is that I found two wires with a plastic connector on the end that are connected to nothing. The wires are black and blue and I cannot find any metal fins where the connector would connect. I can't find any info on the connections in the docs and I am at a loss. Did it come from the factory this way and I am just chasing my tail, or does it need to connect to something? If that is not the problem, then where do I look. I have tried two new batteries and I still have the same issue. I am not getting a charge to my battery.

 

[StarTech]

Most likely it is one of two optional connections. One is for the fuel solenoid on the carburetor if equiped and the other is for an option hour meter.

If your has the fuel solenoid on the carburetor. While the mower is running disconnect one of battery leads. It probably will die which would indicate that the stator (alternator) is not working.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Do you have a volt meter?

 

[pvols1979]

I have a volt meter, but I don't read schematics. I am ashamed. I am an amateur radio operator and I don't know electrical engineering basics. Where should I test?

 

[pvols1979]

Most likely it is one of two optional connections. One is for the fuel solenoid on the carburetor if equiped and the other is for an option hour meter.

If your has the fuel solenoid on the carburetor. While the mower is running disconnect one of battery leads. It probably will die which would indicate that the stator (alternator) is not working.

How expensive is it to repair the stator? Or is that even a thing? Is this engine crap now?

 

[Rivets]

This service manual may be of some help in testing and changing the stator. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE

 

[StarTech]

I have a volt meter, but I don't read schematics. I am ashamed. I am an amateur radio operator and I don't know electrical engineering basics. Where should I test?

Really how did you get your license. Even pass most tests require basic electronics knowledge or at it did back in early '90's. How do I know I am a General Class license holder. I even had to pass the 13 wpm code test which if I understand correctly is now not required.

A great source of radio electronics knowledge is the ARRL Handbooks. Walks you from no knowledge to advance knowledge levels. See if knew electronics then you may only need to replace a $0.75 diode but since you don't then you would need a dual circuit stator which is about $73 list if the test in the service indicates a failed stator.

 

[pvols1979]

I removed the stator. I have on one on the way. It was about $70 with tax. I could replace the diode. I have soldered electronics before. I used to know more when I tested for my ticket, but even then, I only had to know enough to pass the 35 question technician exam. I am one of the guys who tested right after they removed the morse code requirement for technican. I'd rather just replace this complete part and see what happens. What is weird is that the stator looks fairly new. I suppose...without testing the voltage...that the diode is bad and allowed electricity to flow both directions wearing out the coils. I just thought the coils would look worn.

 

[StarTech]

This one instant that soldering don't work. If you notice it crimp in place much like thermal fuses are done on coffee pots.

 

[pvols1979]

This one instant that soldering don't work. If you notice it crimp in place much like thermal fuses are done on coffee pots.

Yeah, I just peeled back the rubberized coating and I see what you mean. I tested the diode and as best I can tell, it only lets electricty flow one way. If I tested correctly, it seems to only flow away from the stator. I am wondering if this part wasn't bad. The winding seems fine and somewhat clean. The diode might be fine. But this lawnmower is not charging while cutting. I will replace it any and see what happens.