Hoping someone can identify my problem with popping/backfiring and producing a gas smell
So here is the symptoms and data
1. Engine is Briggs 44R677 0021G1. The carburetor is a nikki-6 model 796227
2. Backfiring is through the muffler
3. Valve clearance is good at .004 to .006 per the mfr specifications
4. Pushrods are not bent
5. Cam is not a problem - the rocker arms seem move equal distance when rotating engine by hand
6. The engine is only 4-5 years old and has been maintained
7. Fuel is reaching the carburetor, the lines are clear and the fuel pump works
8. Diodes are not the problem. I've removed the kill wires and it backfires with them off
9. Flywheel key is good. I don't see much more than minor surface scratching on it
10. Does not backfire when running on one cylinder. With left kill wire attached and right removed and ignition key in the "off" position, the engine runs on right cylinder (with unattached kill wire) and no backfiring. I reverse this so the left kill wire is removed and right kill wire is attached and the engine runs on the left cylinder while ignition is in the off position. Again no backfiring. It appears the carburetor solenoid does not shut gas off with one kill wire attached, so it kept running with ignition set to "off"
11 (2) years ago I took it to a shop and they said it was the carburetor. I replaced the carb myself and still had the problem. I replaced the carb again and same problem. This will be the third carburetor I am on.
12. I hooked a spark checker up and both plugs are sparking fine as far as I can tell.
13. I've removed the gas and replaced with high octane gas and popping continues
Right now I think the carburetor is probably the problem. The replacement carburetors cost like $30 to $50 and an OEM carburetor is $170 to $250. It might be possible to get 2 bad carbs in a row.....
Let me know your thoughts. I could really use the help
So here is the symptoms and data
1. Engine is Briggs 44R677 0021G1. The carburetor is a nikki-6 model 796227
2. Backfiring is through the muffler
3. Valve clearance is good at .004 to .006 per the mfr specifications
4. Pushrods are not bent
5. Cam is not a problem - the rocker arms seem move equal distance when rotating engine by hand
6. The engine is only 4-5 years old and has been maintained
7. Fuel is reaching the carburetor, the lines are clear and the fuel pump works
8. Diodes are not the problem. I've removed the kill wires and it backfires with them off
9. Flywheel key is good. I don't see much more than minor surface scratching on it
10. Does not backfire when running on one cylinder. With left kill wire attached and right removed and ignition key in the "off" position, the engine runs on right cylinder (with unattached kill wire) and no backfiring. I reverse this so the left kill wire is removed and right kill wire is attached and the engine runs on the left cylinder while ignition is in the off position. Again no backfiring. It appears the carburetor solenoid does not shut gas off with one kill wire attached, so it kept running with ignition set to "off"
11 (2) years ago I took it to a shop and they said it was the carburetor. I replaced the carb myself and still had the problem. I replaced the carb again and same problem. This will be the third carburetor I am on.
12. I hooked a spark checker up and both plugs are sparking fine as far as I can tell.
13. I've removed the gas and replaced with high octane gas and popping continues
Right now I think the carburetor is probably the problem. The replacement carburetors cost like $30 to $50 and an OEM carburetor is $170 to $250. It might be possible to get 2 bad carbs in a row.....
Let me know your thoughts. I could really use the help