New (to me) SEARS rear engine rider

[jim282]

Today, I brought home an old (1980s?) model Sears 7/25, electric start, rear engine, rider. Been sitting around for a long time, but not in too bad of shape. As per usual, won't start and I could use some help. Engine is a Tecumseh #143-286132.

Spark plug is getting wet so I assume carb is at least putting liquid through to the cylinder, but no spark. Used a spark tester and couldn't even get a weak spark. Removed top from motor to get to the coil and it appears that is under the flywheel (please tell me it's not so).

That's where I stopped for the day. Any help on testing procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim.

 

[briggs]

Today, I brought home an old (1980s?) model Sears 7/25, electric start, rear engine, rider. Been sitting around for a long time, but not in too bad of shape. As per usual, won't start and I could use some help. Engine is a Tecumseh #143-286132.

Spark plug is getting wet so I assume carb is at least putting liquid through to the cylinder, but no spark. Used a spark tester and couldn't even get a weak spark. Removed top from motor to get to the coil and it appears that is under the flywheel (please tell me it's not so).

That's where I stopped for the day. Any help on testing procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim.

there is points and a condenser under there points need to be replaced how dose the coil look make sure its good and clean free of rust

 

[DaveTN]

I have a mower like that. I've got mis-aligned pulleys causing it to burn up those short drive belts. It's been sitting on the side of the garage for upwards of about 4 years now. I need to get it started again, go through the fuel system and try to find out what's out of alignment. Those little belts aren't cheap and I can't afford to sacrifice another one. I've also got one of the older versions that has the transmission and chain drive going to the rear end. I took the engine out of it, but the frame and all is still there.
As far as what to check, I agree with the other mechanic who said to check the points and condenser under the flywheel. You may be able to file and gap them, but if you can , then replace them. I've done both over the years...depending on the situation. Might want to disconnect the kill wire where it grounds to see if it gets fire or may be shorting out someplace. Of course if the points aren't working, it wouldn't get fire anyway. They're a nice little mower, easy to maneuver and cuts with a single blade. The ride is a bit rough I must admit. I remember when they had solid tires on the front! OUCH!!