Hello all,
I'm going through a recently acquired 345 lawn tractor #016178 with a FD590V engine and a 54" deck. Some of the information I'm in need of is:
When replacing the front axle pivot pin and bushings, how tight should the castle nut be?
What is the spark plug gap?
When adjusting the valves to .010" cold, they were all open from .004" to .010". I would have thought they would be tighter, not looser. Opinions?
How tight should the lift arm bolts be?
To replace the carriage bolt on the drive belt pulley closest to the engine, can I raise the engine without removing the drive pulley from the crankshaft?
If not, is there a trick to remove that pulley from the crankshaft without damaging it?
The forward-reverse pedals are sticky and don't release immediately every time when I lift my foot. The linkage moves freely. How can I free up the directional valve?
Any helpful info or direction to an online manual would be much appreciated. Regards, Cliff
I'm going through a recently acquired 345 lawn tractor #016178 with a FD590V engine and a 54" deck. Some of the information I'm in need of is:
When replacing the front axle pivot pin and bushings, how tight should the castle nut be?
What is the spark plug gap?
When adjusting the valves to .010" cold, they were all open from .004" to .010". I would have thought they would be tighter, not looser. Opinions?
How tight should the lift arm bolts be?
To replace the carriage bolt on the drive belt pulley closest to the engine, can I raise the engine without removing the drive pulley from the crankshaft?
If not, is there a trick to remove that pulley from the crankshaft without damaging it?
The forward-reverse pedals are sticky and don't release immediately every time when I lift my foot. The linkage moves freely. How can I free up the directional valve?
Any helpful info or direction to an online manual would be much appreciated. Regards, Cliff