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I know nothing about a hydrostatic transmission in a mower, but have always wanted one.

Please give me some advice on them, such as dependability, can they be serviced, repairs, etc.

If I were buying I'd have to go with a Craftsman or similar probably.

Thanks for your help...

Riverman said:

I know nothing about a hydrostatic transmission in a mower, but have always wanted one.

Please give me some advice on them, such as dependability, can they be serviced, repairs, etc.

If I were buying I'd have to go with a Craftsman or similar probably.

Thanks for your help...

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I don't know much about it either, but I do know my Honda HRX217HYA has "hydrostatic Cruise Control" and I love it. I have never had any problems and I have been using it commercially since the beginning of August. Honda Lawn Mowers: HRX217HYA, HRX217K4HYA

Hydrostatic, a fancy term, has been used for decades. You ever wonder what spins the drum on a concrete truck? If you have a chance, later when the weather warms up, you may go visit a concrete plant, and We are sure that the plant manager will be willing to show. After all, concrete truck driving is one of the most hazardous occupations in this make-believe world. They are always looking for drivers. And, the wet kit hardly ever breaks down.

Now, the basics consists of a hydraulic pump, with internal bypass (static) and the motor, driven by some pressure, depending on the position of the load, or spool valve. And, since the valve controls fluid flow, providing reverse; technically, there is no neutral. This is why on new riders with "automatic," One needs to set the parking brake before the engine will crank- safety starter interlock.

Elias40 said:

Hydrostatic, a fancy term, has been used for decades. You ever wonder what spins the drum on a concrete truck? If you have a chance, later when the weather warms up, you may go visit a concrete plant, and We are sure that the plant manager will be willing to show. After all, concrete truck driving is one of the most hazardous occupations in this make-believe world. They are always looking for drivers. And, the wet kit hardly ever breaks down.

Now, the basics consists of a hydraulic pump, with internal bypass (static) and the motor, driven by some pressure, depending on the position of the load, or spool valve. And, since the valve controls fluid flow, providing reverse; technically, there is no neutral. This is why on new riders with "automatic," One needs to set the parking brake before the engine will crank- safety starter interlock.

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AD-LIB: The consumer is stuck with a crap shoot, regardless of price. Some hydros will last longer than others. Three things figure in: Quality of the build; quality and viscosity of the fluid; and the load the output is contented with suffering through.

i lived on a hobby farm of <7 acres for over 10 years. i had both the belt driven 3-speed transmission and the hydrostatic drive system. the transmission style :thumbdown: gave up after 3 years. the hydrostatic :thumbsup: i had, i bought used. the machine was about 20 years old, so i drained the oil(after running it for about 30 minutes), replaced the oil with a non-detergent 10W(suggested by the dealership that i called) and been running it for 5 years now. i have not had any problem with it as of yet. thing you have to think about is now most transmission style now have an aluminium gear case, where as the hydro's are either a higher quality aluminium or steel casing's. also depending if the model you are getting if you are going to use it for a hobby garden or blowing snow, i would suggest the hydrostatic drive.

snapsstorer said:

i lived on a hobby farm of <7 acres for over 10 years. i had both the belt driven 3-speed transmission and the hydrostatic drive system. the transmission style :thumbdown: gave up after 3 years. the hydrostatic :thumbsup: i had, i bought used. the machine was about 20 years old, so i drained the oil(after running it for about 30 minutes), replaced the oil with a non-detergent 10W(suggested by the dealership that i called) and been running it for 5 years now. i have not had any problem with it as of yet. thing you have to think about is now most transmission style now have an aluminum gear case, where as the hydro's are either a higher quality aluminum or steel casing's. also depending if the model you are getting if you are going to use it for a hobby garden or blowing snow, i would suggest the hydrostatic drive.

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10W hydraulic oil was all we ever used in wet kits- no different than the lowly old 1/2 ton bottle jack. We are suprised that the tuff torque 46 requires a 5w50. Strange. We didn't know a 5w50 existed. Boy are we getting old!
Alumininium has been given a bad rap, why? maybe because of something started byGM, and their reluctantly being pried away from their beloved stove bolt six. They pulled the plug on the Corvette, until a Russian came in, and showed them what was needed to be done. I think that the Japanese had the upper hand of forming aluminum, that GM was insulted because they were years behind (still in diapers, sucking on their binkies) We won't even go to where the Germans already had electronic fuel injection.

Actually, the only fluid superior to all others, was Ford Type F. Can't find it anymore, huh?

Ok, now, we are stupid. Just what is a Hobby Farm? Can you please enlighten us?

I say go for a Standard because they can handle more tow and last longer got a 20 year old craftsman with a standard in it and still runs great to this day

Elias40 said:

Ok, now, we are stupid. Just what is a Hobby Farm? Can you please enlighten us?

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According to my favorite source Wilkepedia:
In the US, as farms grow in size, older farms become less economically viable. Some are purchased and most of the land combined with larger nearby farms, however the large farm has little use for the buildings. These can be sold off with only a building lot of real estate, but are much more saleable if a modest area, 5 to 15 acres (20,000 to 60,000 mｲ) is sold along with them. These are usually snapped up quickly by people with well-paying city jobs who wish to live in the country, or to retirees, who wish to be active as part time farmers.

midnite rider said:

According to my favorite source Wilkepedia:
In the US, as farms grow in size, older farms become less economically viable. Some are purchased and most of the land combined with larger nearby farms, however the large farm has little use for the buildings. These can be sold off with only a building lot of real estate, but are much more saleable if a modest area, 5 to 15 acres (20,000 to 60,000 mｲ) is sold along with them. These are usually snapped up quickly by people with well-paying city jobs who wish to live in the country, or to retirees, who wish to be active as part time farmers.

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Thanks midnite rider. Had heard the expression before, but thought it may have been a nickname, or slang term.

:smile:My IHC Cub Cadet 149 is 40 years old and its a hydro. It gets some pretty rugged use during snow plowing and garden tilling. Maintance is the key, keep the grass, dirt and grease cleaned off the hdyro unit and rear end. Change the fluid and filter if equiped as stated by the manfacture. It was stated that there is no neutral in a hdyro, step on the brake on see were the lever goes, by all rights it should go to neutral. The problem I see on the LT hdyro's/gear driven that come in to my shop, is the Owners lack of maintance or they are using them other than what they are intended for. This post was not intended to bash gear driven tractors, as I like them also. Don B.