Hi all, new to this forum. I have a Husqvarna CTH174 that won’t start. I turn the key and it does absolutely nothing. The cutter deck is raised, the foot brake is down, the cutter deck is off, I’m sat on the seat. I’ve checked the 20a fuse and the battery is fully charged. I had been mowing the lawn when the better half walked over to talk. I turned the cutter deck off, then switched off the engine. When I went to restart is when this problem occurred. Can anyone help please?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Husqvarna CTH174 not starting
- Thread starter Mattp637
- Start date
More options
Export threadFirst thing I would check is the connection between the negative battery cable and chassis. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen them come loose. If that connection is good try the troubleshooting procedure I use.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thankyou for this. I can confirm that the fuse is good, the battery is at 12.53v with good clean terminals. I have 12.53v at the one large terminal on the solenoid. When sat on the seat and turning the ignition, there is no reading on the other large terminal on the solenoid and 10.4mv on the small terminal at the bottom of the solenoid. I’m getting no reading at the starter. I’ve checked the ground circuit back to the battery, that all seems good.First thing I would check is the connection between the negative battery cable and chassis. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen them come loose. If that connection is good try the troubleshooting procedure I use.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
You either have a bad solenoid or bad ground wire from the solenoid. If you have a three post solenoid the solenoid housing is used as a ground. Remove the solenoid and clean the surface which contacts the frame. Also clean the area where it makes contact with the frame so you will have a good ground connection. Still no start, bad solenoid. If you have a four post solenoid, one of the small posts will have power from the switch and the other is return to ground. Again clean these connections. No start bad solenoid.
I have checked all of the ground wires. I’ve got the mower started by using another battery and going straight to the starter motor. With the engine running, I’m only getting 3.6v at the lawnmower battery. I thought this might be the alternative, however with the regulator disconnected the alternator is giving 54v. Am I correct in thinking that the regulator is stuffed and that could be my problem?You either have a bad solenoid or bad ground wire from the solenoid. If you have a three post solenoid the solenoid housing is used as a ground. Remove the solenoid and clean the surface which contacts the frame. Also clean the area where it makes contact with the frame so you will have a good ground connection. Still no start, bad solenoid. If you have a four post solenoid, one of the small posts will have power from the switch and the other is return to ground. Again clean these connections. No start bad solenoid.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,702
Before condeming the rectifier measure the voltage between the DC output terminal and the rectifier body.
The body is the ground contact and if mounted on the plastic blower housing needs a ground strap between the engine & the rectifier body .
These straps often break or get forgotten when replacing the rectifier or blower housing .
The body is the ground contact and if mounted on the plastic blower housing needs a ground strap between the engine & the rectifier body .
These straps often break or get forgotten when replacing the rectifier or blower housing .
The 2 wires straight off the Magneto should read something like 34 volts , into the voltage regulator , out of the voltage regulator should be something in the neighborhood of 14 plus I think, I can think of no reason this has anything to do with it not starting with a fully charged battery, you either have a bad Solenoid or bad connection somewhere or a faulty ignition switch all of a sudden. If you apply 12 volts to the small terminal on the Solenoid and it kicks over, it's a shorted wire to the ignition switch or a bad switch. Use a test light and see if you have power from the ignition switch to the solenoid terminal