I have a Husquvarna tractor. 18.5hp. Can anyone tell me why I have gone thru 4 head gaskets? This one being the 4th. Blows out right across from the plug. There is no way I screwed up 3 headgaskets. Getting a little tired of this crap. Are these engines junk? I can change a hot cylinder in a 2500hp EMD but can't keep this running. Should sell everything and buy a diesel....
Head gasket
- Thread starter Oarhead
- Start date
1.Have you thought about lapping the head and block face where the gasket goes?
2.Torquing and retorquing the head bolts a few times after the job is done?
3.Cleaning the bolt holes out with a bottom tap?
4.Cleaning the bolt threads off with a die?
5.Spraying a little high tack sealant on the gasket prior to installing?
You know, doing the job proper?
2.Torquing and retorquing the head bolts a few times after the job is done?
3.Cleaning the bolt holes out with a bottom tap?
4.Cleaning the bolt threads off with a die?
5.Spraying a little high tack sealant on the gasket prior to installing?
You know, doing the job proper?
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2020
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Now I am assume 18.5 single cylinder here.
Are you torquing in the sequence shown in the service manual use three step torque procedure to 21 ft/lbs. Service manual has it 220 in-lbs / 18.3 ft/lbs but Brigg increased it to 250 in-lbs / 20.8 (IE 21 ft-lbs) due head gasket failures.
Are you torquing in the sequence shown in the service manual use three step torque procedure to 21 ft/lbs. Service manual has it 220 in-lbs / 18.3 ft/lbs but Brigg increased it to 250 in-lbs / 20.8 (IE 21 ft-lbs) due head gasket failures.
How long does a head gasket usually last on your engine? (average time, like one hour, one day, or a year???)
The head and or block is either warped or as startech indicates you are not torqueing the head bolts PROPERLY.
With patience you should be able to check the head and block for warpage.
Also if it has a small dip or groove in the aluminum where it is burning through is not a good thing.
That area you describe is a wimpy place for the single cylinder Briggs Intek engines, some last forever, some don't and proceed by the book (service manual) when replacing the head gasket on those type. Make sure all the cooling fins and flywheel plastic fins are in place. Do not test run the engine over few seconds with the cooling shroud removed.
If all else fails try two heads gaskets.
The head and or block is either warped or as startech indicates you are not torqueing the head bolts PROPERLY.
With patience you should be able to check the head and block for warpage.
Also if it has a small dip or groove in the aluminum where it is burning through is not a good thing.
That area you describe is a wimpy place for the single cylinder Briggs Intek engines, some last forever, some don't and proceed by the book (service manual) when replacing the head gasket on those type. Make sure all the cooling fins and flywheel plastic fins are in place. Do not test run the engine over few seconds with the cooling shroud removed.
If all else fails try two heads gaskets.
He's already done all these items.
Every Briggs head I've removed is not flat. Not even close. Engine block face the same. Once a year I clean the cooling fins and change the oil. Check torque on the head bolts. Always find a couple or more that will turn a bit.
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