Fuel Issues Craftsman LT1000

[Whalensdad]

I'm having the following issue. After I've been using the mower for 45 min or so, the mower starts sputtering and then quits. I noticed that the fuel filter is empty, and it appears that the carb is starved for fuel. I've seen a video online which lead me to believe it was getting vapor locked due to the fuel line getting too hot and evaporating the fuel. I rerouted the fuel line, but the problem persists. When it happens I can disconnect the fuel line and then blow lightly into both the tank and then into the carb. The filter gets some fuel and it will run for a few minutes, but then it quits again. I previously rebuilt the carb, so I believe it is clean and not getting gunked up. It happens more often when the mower is on a slight incline, but can happen when on flat ground as well.

1. What should I be looking at? Should I replace the carb? The fuel line and filter are new.
2. Is there a fuel pump mod that can be added? I know there are some models that have a pmp.

 

[bertsmobile1]

debris in the fuel tank being sucked into the fuel outlet blocking off the fuel supply .

 

[StarTech]

If it vapor lock then the carburetor itself may source and not the fuel line. Also in the past some fuel solenoid were failing under heated conditions. Walbro carbs on some Kohler engine was in the past experiencing heat issues and they came out with a kits to resolve the heating issue where they shielded the fuel bowl and solenoid.

But I think that both the AYP(Husqvarna) and MTD versions of the LT1000 use Briggs engines.

 

[Whalensdad]

debris in the fuel tank being sucked into the fuel outlet blocking off the fuel supply .

Good suggestion, but fuel tank was cleaned.

If it vapor lock then the carburetor itself may source and not the fuel line. Also in the past some fuel solenoid were failing under heated conditions. Walbro carbs on some Kohler engine was in the past experiencing heat issues and they came out with a kits to resolve the heating issue where they shielded the fuel bowl and solenoid.

But I think that both the AYP(Husqvarna) and MTD versions of the LT1000 use Briggs engines.

Do you recommend replacing the carb and solenoid?

 

[StarTech]

Right now it best to figure out where the problem actually lays before spending lot of money that can be as simple as trash block the fuel tank pickup (drain) hole or a loose connections. These type problems can always be something that we don't think of or something major. This why careful troubleshooting important. Patience is key to finding the problem.

I have had customers that tried fixing their problem on their own by buying and swapping out parts base it could be or that to only finally bring them into shop and I find simple wrong. One time I has customer that had a starting problem. He listen to members of some forum that got him to swap the starter, starter solenoid, battery, voltage regulator, and the stator on a mower. When the mower finally came into my and after carefully troubleshooting, I found that a simple bad fifty cent wire terminal at the ignition was his problem. And he was out several hundred dollars guessing at the problem. He wanted me to buy his used parts for what paid for the new parts; didn't happen. Instead he was out another $60 for my time.

Last year I had JD ZTR that would mow for 30 minutes and then die straving for fuel. It always cranked right back up. It took time troubleshooting but I finally found the problem. Guess what, it was a honeybee and a yellowjacket in the fuel tank. They would get sucked up and block the fuel flow but as soon as the engine shut down they would unblock the pickup tube. A similar thing happen here last week to Yazoo ZTR where a fuel cap inter seal disintegrated and pieces of it was randomly block the fuel pickup (drain).

 

[ILENGINE]

If it vapor lock then the carburetor itself may source and not the fuel line. Also in the past some fuel solenoid were failing under heated conditions. Walbro carbs on some Kohler engine was in the past experiencing heat issues and they came out with a kits to resolve the heating issue where they shielded the fuel bowl and solenoid.

But I think that both the AYP(Husqvarna) and MTD versions of the LT1000 use Briggs engines.

There was an issue with the heat shield on some Craftsman/Husqvarna riders that would direct exhaust heat up onto the fuel bowl of the Briggs Intek V-twin carb bowl. Bowl would get so hot that you couldn't hold your hand on the bowl.. And part of the Kohler single courage fuel solenoid issue was MTD moving the muffler within 6 inches of the fuel solenoid without a heat shield. The solenoid would get so hot that it would burn the wires.

Kohler blames the issue on the MTD exhaust, MTD blamed the issue on an overcharging voltage regulator. Neither would pay for warranty on the damaged solenoid.

 

[StarTech]

I had both issues a few years ago here but part of the problem here was winter fuel use in the hot Spring weather. Gasoline can boil as low as 140F depending how it is mixed by the refinery. Shielding the carb and fuel lines helps as I was getting air temps around the carburetor of about 300F according to laser thermometer. Apparently JD had some of the same problems with a few of their mowers as I have found fuel lines insulated on them.

Sounds about right on warranties. Some are so the OEMs are not responsible for anything much like a service contract that Standard Register that was written by corporate lawyers where nothing legally was covered by the service contract.

This why with the new HG dealership any supposedly warranty repairs the customer will get billed up front and then I get reimbursed; the customer gets reimbursed. I not to sure becoming a HG dealer was the right thing to do here. I can do some decent paying work but without any info everything is in the dark. I really could a book time sheet to work from to see I am too slow or too fast.

 

[Whalensdad]

Right now it best to figure out where the problem actually lays before spending lot of money that can be as simple as trash block the fuel tank pickup (drain) hole or a loose connections. These type problems can always be something that we don't think of or something major. This why careful troubleshooting important. Patience is key to finding the problem.

I have had customers that tried fixing their problem on their own by buying and swapping out parts base it could be or that to only finally bring them into shop and I find simple wrong. One time I has customer that had a starting problem. He listen to members of some forum that got him to swap the starter, starter solenoid, battery, voltage regulator, and the stator on a mower. When the mower finally came into my and after carefully troubleshooting, I found that a simple bad fifty cent wire terminal at the ignition was his problem. And he was out several hundred dollars guessing at the problem. He wanted me to buy his used parts for what paid for the new parts; didn't happen. Instead he was out another $60 for my time.

Last year I had JD ZTR that would mow for 30 minutes and then die straving for fuel. It always cranked right back up. It took time troubleshooting but I finally found the problem. Guess what, it was a honeybee and a yellowjacket in the fuel tank. They would get sucked up and block the fuel flow but as soon as the engine shut down they would unblock the pickup tube. A similar thing happen here last week to Yazoo ZTR where a fuel cap inter seal disintegrated and pieces of it was randomly block the fuel pickup (drain).

I've done the troubleshooting aspect as far as I know. The tank was cleaned, carb rebuilt, and the hoses/and filter were replaced. I don't see how debris could be the issue. Is there a mod kit to shield the carb and lines?

 

[bertsmobile1]

I use an old Tecumseh fuel tank connected directly to the carb to check for debris in the fuel system.
And some red LED spark testers to check the electrical system
If they stop flashing before the engine stops then you have an electrical problem
If the fuel solenoid is working properly then you can disconnect the kill wires & mow
If the problem goes away then your fault is in the wiring
As mentioned before by others it is a process of careful elimination
For instance it could be a softened fuel line inner that gets soft and collapses
For vapour locks try some foam tube slotted and slipped over the fuel lines
If you really want to you can get a sheet of exhaust gasket material and make a head shield for the carb to eliminate that .

 

[Whalensdad]

I use an old Tecumseh fuel tank connected directly to the carb to check for debris in the fuel system.
And some red LED spark testers to check the electrical system
If they stop flashing before the engine stops then you have an electrical problem
If the fuel solenoid is working properly then you can disconnect the kill wires & mow
If the problem goes away then your fault is in the wiring
As mentioned before by others it is a process of careful elimination
For instance it could be a softened fuel line inner that gets soft and collapses
For vapour locks try some foam tube slotted and slipped over the fuel lines
If you really want to you can get a sheet of exhaust gasket material and make a head shield for the carb to eliminate that .

Thanks, I'll give this a try.