Feeling fuelish

[Coelacanth64]

Folks,
While mowing today my 1440 suddenly died in heavy grass.
I had the deck raised quite a bit to avoid clogging, and this was a section I had mowed many times. So, I was surprised that the mower quit on me.
Upon inspection it developed that one of the mower deck lift arm cotter pins had gone missing, allowing the left side of the deck to drop to the ground.
I inserted a new pin, raised the deck and attempted a restart. The engine cranked normally, but would not fire.
So, I tried a can of starting fluid.
Using the fluid the engine fired, but only ran for a few seconds and died.
I towed the mower back to the garage, checked the fuel line....full of fuel. Fuel filter is new.
But, when I pulled the spark plugs the were both bone dry.
I’m suspecting the fuel pump?
Any other possibilities I might have missed?
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[gainestruk]

If it died really fast I would take blower cover off the engine an look at the shear key, if it's broken or sheared enough that you see it's moved that will put it out of time and it won't start.

 

[bertsmobile1]

So you have no fuel in the engine
That would indicate either the valves are not moving or no fuel form the carb
You then sprayed starting fluid down the carb & the engine fired so that indicates the valves are working & the spark timing is somewhere near right.

If the engine died suddenly and did not splutter & die then the culprit is something that happens suddenly
A faulty fuel solenoid in your carb fits this bill exactly.
However it would not hurt to verify the fuel supply and the easiest way to do that is to remove the fuel line at the carburettor & crank the engine
Fuel spurting from the end of the fuel line confirms the pump is working,

While you are there check that the plug is still connected to the solenoid.
IF it is good you should be able to hear & feel it click on & off as your turn the key on & off.

LEt us know what you find.

 

[Coelacanth64]

The mower ran long enough on ether that it allowed me to back it up a few feet out of the thick grass. So, I’m hoping it isn’t the shear key. Hoping.
I’ll pull the gas line from the carb later and see if it pumps fuel when cranked. I have my fingers crossed that it’s just the pump. Although, the pump quitting when the engine was forced to stall would be one heck of a coincidence.
Stay tuned. No pun intended.

 

[bertsmobile1]

In 8 years seriving very old mowers I am yet to find a faulty fuel pump excemp the mechanical ones used on Kohlers.

 

[ILENGINE]

In 8 years seriving very old mowers I am yet to find a faulty fuel pump excemp the mechanical ones used on Kohlers.

And most of those where not the pump either it was the cam driver for the pump. Have come across a few vacuum type pumps on Briggs that would fail when hot.

 

[Coelacanth64]

O.K., gas line disconnected from carb, engine cranked....fuel spurts from line. Not the pump.
Plugs look pretty beat. Going to replace them first.
How likely is it that the machine would start, run, move on ether if the shear key is the issue?
Would the blades stalling in high grass cause enough stress to bend/break a shear key?

 

[bertsmobile1]

So go back to square one, and start to eliminate things
MEchanical things are the easiest so
First step, check the valve lash.
Adjust if necessary write it down then go mow.
BEfore your next mow, check them again
And do it once more on the third mow
If they are all over the place then a valve guide or valve seat is shifting when the mower gets hot.

Buy a pair of red in line plug testers and fit them to the mower.
Look at them every now & then.
With the engine running full speed they should glow bright orange continious.
IF they start flashing then the spark is breaking down.

Third get a bolt (3/8 UNF from memory ) to replace the solenoid in the carb bowl
Problem goes away then you have found the guilty party.

Get a can of carb cleaner and when the engine stops use it to see if the engine starts
If it does, try to keep the engine running a MINUTE or so by giving the engine SHORT shots of carb cleaner down the carb
DO not use starting fluid to do this as you risk detonation and holing a piston.
IF you can keep the engine running then that points the finger of blame well & truly at the fuel supply .

Do them one at a time

 

[Coelacanth64]

Installed new plugs. Didn’t expect that it was a cure, but it needed them.
Tried a start. No.
Shot it with starter fluid. Ran for about three seconds, then died.
Checked plugs. Bone dry.
But, the line squirts gas if I disconnect it from the carb and crank the engine.

Just to be certain,...if it starts with the ether then the intake valves are opening? Also, if it’s running, if only for a few seconds, then it will start...so, the shear key must be ok? But, why isn’t the fuel getting to the cylinders if the starter fluid does? Float issue? I’m not familiar with the float solenoid, but I’m a quick learner...unless my wife is voting.

Addendum: I did some reading. I now get the solenoid concept. I’ve located a replacement. But, where is it located? Do I need to remove the carb, if it looks like the solenoid is the culprit?

 

[Scrubcadet10]

Generally, you should hear an audible 'click' when you turn the key, battery on, but not cranking. That's the solenoid retracting to allow fuel flow.