Electrical Problems with a Vanguard 16hp

[AdamE]

Hi all.

I've got an old Cub Cadet 2165 with the Vanguard 16 (model: 303447 / type: 1147-A1) that won't start.

I put a new battery in it 5 weeks ago and all was fine. Yesterday it wouldn't start so I brought the battery back to AutoZone to get tested. They said it looked okay, but needed a charge. I put my Battery Tender on overnight and it says it's fully charged.

I just tried starting it so I could check the stator and voltage regulator but all I get is the loud click from the solenoid. With the key on, the PTO clutch engages too.

What's my next step? Should I try jumping it to see if it really is my battery? It's a cheapest Duralast I could get.

Thanks!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Cheap is some times good
Good is seldom cheap
!) Jump directly from the battery - to a good ground near the starter and hit the key
If the engine cranks your ground connection or cable is bad.

2) jump directly from the battery + to the starter +
Engine fails to crank = bad starter

3) engine cranks in #2 above move jumper to the battery side of solenoid & turn key
Engine cranks = bad power cable

 

[mechanic mark]

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com

Cub Cadet Service Manuals

Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.

www.ccpartsnmore.com

You need at least 250 CCA Battery for your 2165 Cub Cadet Garden Tractor. Suggestion: Don't buy cheap parts for your tractor, I myself would purchase 350 CCA Battery for your heavy duty Cub.

 

[hlw49]

Do get one loud Click or multicipal clicks. If single loud probably the solenoid if multicipal battery or bad connection. I have seen batteries that when checked, check weak like it needs a charge but are still bad. Did they load test the battery? If not could be bad.

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

Hi all.

I've got an old Cub Cadet 2165 with the Vanguard 16 (model: 303447 / type: 1147-A1) that won't start.

I put a new battery in it 5 weeks ago and all was fine. Yesterday it wouldn't start so I brought the battery back to AutoZone to get tested. They said it looked okay, but needed a charge. I put my Battery Tender on overnight and it says it's fully charged.

I just tried starting it so I could check the stator and voltage regulator but all I get is the loud click from the solenoid. With the key on, the PTO clutch engages too.

What's my next step? Should I try jumping it to see if it really is my battery? It's a cheapest Duralast I could get.

Thanks!

These starters are marginal. You said the clutch is on with key on. That extra drag will then reduce cranking speed to zip or so slow you will not have enough rpm for magneto to fire a spark. Fix wwiring for clutch.

 

[AdamE]

Sorry it took so long to get back.

I tried jumping the ground closer to the starter with no luck.

Jumped + from battery to starter and it cranked.

I thought maybe it was the solenoid. Took it off and bench tested it, but it worked fine.

The problem is, after a few cranks the battery doesn't have enough juice to troubleshoot more. That's after having it on a Battery Tender for 5 days. I'm gonna take it back and exchange it (hopefully, they'll let me upgrade to the 'Gold' version). I figure it's the easiest and most obvious thing to do before I start looking deeper.

Thanks.

 

[hlw49]

Jumped + from battery to starter and it cranked. The problem is, after a few cranks the battery doesn't have enough juice to troubleshoot more. I thought maybe it was the solenoid. Took it off and bench tested it, but it worked fine.

How are you determining it worked fine? What are you calling cranked? Started and ran or cranked the engine over? I tried starting it but all I get is the loud click from the solenoid. Still Could be the solenoid.

 

[AdamE]

I finally swapped batteries with my Exmark and the Cub started and ran fine. I then went to Auto Zone to get a new battery. The guy there tested it first and said it was fully charged and fine. It took some convincing to get him to agree to a swap. I also upgraded to a better, crappy 'Gold' battery for an extra $29. Installed it and everything is good.

What worries me is that the original battery I bought 5 weeks ago was fine too at first. Is it possible there's something else going on that would not only drain the battery but kill it?

I checked the output of the stator and it looked correct at about 30 vac.

hlw49, If it matters at this point, I have an Astron 13.8 v / 7 amp continuous power supply that I energized it with. When energized, I got continuity.

Thanks all!

 

[hlw49]

I finally swapped batteries with my Exmark and the Cub started and ran fine. I then went to Auto Zone to get a new battery. The guy there tested it first and said it was fully charged and fine. It took some convincing to get him to agree to a swap. I also upgraded to a better, crappy 'Gold' battery for an extra $29. Installed it and everything is good.

What worries me is that the original battery I bought 5 weeks ago was fine too at first. Is it possible there's something else going on that would not only drain the battery but kill it?

I checked the output of the stator and it looked correct at about 30 vac.

hlw49, If it matters at this point, I have an Astron 13.8 v / 7 amp continuous power supply that I energized it with. When energized, I got continuity.

Thanks all!

Glad U got it figured out. Activating a solenoid and getting continuity does not mean it will carry the amp load it needs to start the engine.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

One problem is Auto Zone.
In the future deal with automotive parts outlet that has load testing equipment. An example: NAPA