Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.

testdepth

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
This mower was used just fine to cut half the lawn and then turned off to go get some water. I tried to start it and nothing but a clicking sound. Won't turn over and battery tests at 12.7V. I did the idiot check with arms out, deck disengaged and nothing but a click. Solenoid removed and tested good.

Any ideas?
 

slomo

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
This mower was used just fine to cut half the lawn and then turned off to go get some water.
Mower was thirsty. (y)
I tried to start it and nothing but a clicking sound.
Bad battery terminals or connections. Bad starter solenoid. That is what's clicking the solenoid. Contacts are worn not passing the current.
Won't turn over and battery tests at 12.7V.
You need to load test the battery. Take it to an auto parts store. They check for free. Like in a car, dome light on but won't crank over. Meaning battery has enough amperage to light the dome light but lacks enough to turn the starter over.

If you take a screwdriver and short the cable connections on the solenoid, and it cranks over the engine, the starter solenoid is bad.
 

testdepth

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
How was this done?
Battery terminal positive to one side of the solenoid and negative to the other. Solenoid functioned by closing contacts. I also left 12V connected and placed my ohm meter across the top terminals and measured 0V or dead short which means the solenoid is good.
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Clicking solenoid is a sign that it is not getting enough power
Around 9 to 10 V will trip the solenoid but when the connection is made for the starter the starter draws a lot of amps which will cause the voltage to drop
When the voltage drops to below the 9/10 volts the solenoid turns off, the high current draw stops the available voltage rises and the solenoid closes again, the high current draw drops the voltage which gets too low the solenoid turns off, the current load dissapears so the voltage rises .
You hear the machine gun clicking

SO the actual problem is the starter can not get enough amps or wants more amps than the mower can supply .
The most common cause of this is a bad ground strap
The test is to run a ground jumper from the battery - to a good ground near the starter
Problem goes away confirms this.
Note on ZTR's I have seen a few where water has wicked into battery cables and rotted through the wires under the insulation so they look good, will Ω test good but not carry any current
Can happen to either or both cables.

Assuming that the ground jumper did not make the starter work then the next trick is to run a jumper from the + terminal on the starter motor to the + terminal of the battery ( connect the starter first) . The starter should spin if it and the battery is good .

Assuming no joy here either then jump from a known good battery as above directly to the starter
If the starter spins the mower battery is bad
If the starter does not spin then it is faulty.
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Battery terminal positive to one side of the solenoid and negative to the other. Solenoid functioned by closing contacts. I also left 12V connected and placed my ohm meter across the top terminals and measured 0V or dead short which means the solenoid is good.
That tests the operation of the solenoid, but it does not mean the solenoid will pass high current.
The contacts burn over time to the point that an Ω reading will be 0 but it will not pass enough current.
 
Last edited:

slomo

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Yup check you some grounds.
 

slomo

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Battery terminal positive to one side of the solenoid and negative to the other. Solenoid functioned by closing contacts. I also left 12V connected and placed my ohm meter across the top terminals and measured 0V or dead short which means the solenoid is good.
Not seeing any load here on the solenoid.

All electrical circuits need to be load tested to confirm they pass current as Bert is talking about.
 

testdepth

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Installed the solenoid and hooked battery cables from my truck to the mower battery. I turned the key and still nothing but a click. I can hold the key in the start position and pull the PTO switch up and down to hear a clunk at the starter but it won't turnover. Still nothing but a click.
 

testdepth

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  • / Cub Cadet zero turn ZT1 50" no start, just clicks and solenoid tests good.
Clicking solenoid is a sign that it is not getting enough power
Around 9 to 10 V will trip the solenoid but when the connection is made for the starter the starter draws a lot of amps which will cause the voltage to drop
When the voltage drops to below the 9/10 volts the solenoid turns off, the high current draw stops the available voltage rises and the solenoid closes again, the high current draw drops the voltage which gets too low the solenoid turns off, the current load dissapears so the voltage rises .
You hear the machine gun clicking

SO the actual problem is the starter can not get enough amps or wants more amps than the mower can supply .
The most common cause of this is a bad ground strap
The test is to run a ground jumper from the battery - to a good ground near the starter
Problem goes away confirms this.
Note on ZTR's I have seen a few where water has wicked into battery cables and rotted through the wires under the insulation so they look good, will Ω test good but not carry any current
Can happen to either or both cables.

Assuming that the ground jumper did not make the starter work then the next trick is to run a jumper from the + terminal on the starter motor to the + terminal of the battery ( connect the starter first) . The starter should spin if it and the battery is good .

Assuming no joy here either then jump from a known good battery as above directly to the starter
If the starter spins the mower battery is bad
If the starter does not spin then it is faulty.
Ran the jumper from the battery negative to the ground nearest the starter and no joy. Same click sound
 
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