Cub Cadet 1515 : Clogged Fuel Line?

[dvd7e]

Hi,

I have a pretty old (early 2000's) Cub Cadet 1515 that has been giving me trouble starting up the engine for a few years now. The only way I can get the mower to start is by taking off the side panel, disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter, and then using my mouth to very forcibly blow back into the fuel line for several seconds, and then quickly reattach the fuel line back to the fuel filter once the fuel starts flowing again. Doing this routine has been the *only* way that I can get the mower to start, week-in and week-out, for a few years now. I change the fuel filter (along with everything else, air filter, oil, oil filter etc.) every year, and I have no reason to think that there is any bad gas in system.

FWIW....occasionally, but not always, while mowing it will also sputter as though it were getting a choked/limited gas supply. It doesn't happen every time, but when it does it usually lasts for the entire mowing session. I haven't tested this exhaustively, but it seems to be correlated with when I have about 1/3 or less in the fuel tank. After noticing this I've been keeping the gas tank above half and I haven't noticed it sputtering anymore.

Could there be grass or other junk in the gas tank clogging the flow of fuel? I hear that cleaning out the gas tank is a real pain and somewhat time consuming process, so I'm hoping there might be alternative options.

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[hlw49]

Looks like you would have to remove the tank.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Remove the fuel lines & fuel cap and drain the fuel tank then let it dry out completely
Then shove a vacuum tube down the filler cap and or blow a lot of air up the fuel line

 

[hlw49]

yea you might get it all that way.

 

[bertsmobile1]

No
But you should get enough to stop it clogging up & cutting off the supply

 

[Charlie8d]

Might as well add a new line & filter after doing the above.

 

[dvd7e]

Thanks everyone. Does anyone know of a good set of step-by-step instructions for removing the gas tank for the Cub Cadet 1515? I'm not seeing anything in the user manual. Any idea how big of a job removing the tank is?.....is that < 1 hour, 1-2 hours, 2-3 hours, 3+ etc

Thank you

 

[bertsmobile1]

depending upon your strength it is a 2 to 4 hour job excluding things like drilling out rusted in bolts

1) flip the seat & disconnect the wiring
2) remove the pedals
3) remove the bolts holding down the rear mudguard
4) remove the seat if working by yourself
6] remove the lift handle end & set it at top
7) every one forgets this remove the fuel cap
8) remove the fuel line at the tank ( awkward )
9) lift the rear body panel up & out sliding rear ward as you do ( 2 people good here )
10 ) curse & swear because you forgot a bolt under the foot board covers
Go to Cub Cadet web page & download the parts manual for your mower to locate the exact position of the fasteners.
The bolts through the foot board section are usually rusted in solid and have to be drilled out
While it is off give the transmission a good clean & replace the hydro oil & filter

I think there is a video out there by Cubcadets & more or eReplacement parts showing how it is done on a latter model 2000 or 3000 but the proceedure is the same on all of them.

 

[lbrac]

Just a thought based on the symptoms you described:

If the tank has enough particulates to restrict flow, try draining the tank by gravity into a container through the fuel hose disconnected before the fuel pump, or filter if the filter is on the inlet side of the pump, to see if it flows freely until the tank is empty. Then inspect the fuel collected in the container for particulates. If the flow stops or slows significantly before the tank is empty, drain the fuel from the tank, let it air dry and use a shop vac with a hose sized to fit through the fill port into the tank to remove any solids left in the tank. Pull the carb bowl to look for deposits.

Check the cap on the fuel tank to make sure it is relieving the vacuum in the fuel tank as fuel is used. I'm not familiar with the type of cap used, some have a relief valve that only allows air in when the vacuum rises enough, but it can sometimes not open if there is corrosion or dirt, etc. in the cap's relief valve. This suggestion might not be appropriate for some types of caps, like manually vented caps. To test the cap, loosen it from the tank a bit before running the engine long enough that the symptoms would normally begin if it were tight. Make sure vibration doesn't cause the cap to fall off to be lost, or hit by the blades.

Also, consider that the fuel pump could be weak due to a bad check valve, etc.