Repairs Craftsman lt1000 17.5 ic ohv electrical problem

fogordon

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Sep 24, 2012
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Insert key turn it on.
No lights.
Try to start ad it is dead.
Check bettery ad it is fully charges.
Checked 20 amp fuse and it is good.
Seat switch is fine.
No power anywhere so where do I start?
 

Lawnranger

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Apr 18, 2012
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Most riding mowers pull the power supply off of the large solenoid terminal that has the red wire coming directly off of the battery positive terminal. Usually there is an eye connector feeding a small wire that goes back into the harness. Check your ignition switch terminal B for 12 volts as it should be present all the time. If you have 12 volts at terminal B then check for power coming out while holding the key in the start position. If you do not have 12 volts at terminal B you need to check thee harness for an open in that wire. If you have power coming out then proceed with the following diagnostic procedure:

This was put together by a few forum members and might help. Let us know how you are doing.


Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

larrymetos

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Jun 10, 2013
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Most riding mowers pull the power supply off of the large solenoid terminal that has the red wire coming directly off of the battery positive terminal. Usually there is an eye connector feeding a small wire that goes back into the harness. Check your ignition switch terminal B for 12 volts as it should be present all the time. If you have 12 volts at terminal B then check for power coming out while holding the key in the start position. If you do not have 12 volts at terminal B you need to check thee harness for an open in that wire. If you have power coming out then proceed with the following diagnostic procedure:

This was put together by a few forum members and might help. Let us know how you are doing.


Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*


Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*


Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*


Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*


Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*


Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.


After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.



First - the 20 amp fuse is good
Second - I have power to the large terminal of the solenoid from the battery
Third - I have no power at he small terminal of the solenoid, the ground is well grounded.
Fourth - I have no power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while turning the key and sitting with foot on the brake
Fifth - I have no power at the starter while holding the key in the start position
Sixth - Tested ground circuit back to the battery is in working order

- I have also tested the seat safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I have tested the brake/clutch safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I have tested the blade safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I put in a new battery
- I put in a new solenoid.
- Again, there is no power to the 12v small power lead on the solenoid

Please help!
 

larrymetos

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Jun 10, 2013
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I am having this issue and the local shops can't answer.

I have a Craftsman LT-1000

First - the 20 amp fuse is good
Second - I have power to the large terminal of the solenoid from the battery
Third - I have no power at he small terminal of the solenoid, the ground is well grounded.
Fourth - I have no power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while turning the key and sitting with foot on the brake
Fifth - I have no power at the starter while holding the key in the start position
Sixth - Tested ground circuit back to the battery is in working order

- I have also tested the seat safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I have tested the brake/clutch safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I have tested the blade safety switch, it is functioning properly.
- I put in a new battery
- I put in a new solenoid.
- Again, there is no power to the 12v small power lead on the solenoid

Please help!
 

whitejww

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Threads
1
Messages
18
Okay I wil throw this out there as my memory is a bit foggy these days. If I recall correctly I picked up a mower with a similar issue. The PO told me the engine was blown. As it turned out when jumped the solonoid it ran like a charm. The issue turned out to be the ammeter connection had fallen off. I plugged it back on to the meter and voila I had a running LT1000 with bagging system for a whopping $75. I am not sure if you have an ammeter but if you do check the circuit to it. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
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15,305
With your results I would check the B terminal on the key switch. If you have 12V then turn the key switch to start and check the S terminal for 12V. What you are checking is to see if you have voltage coming in and going out of the switch. No voltage on the B terminal, bad wiring from solenoid to switch. No voltage at the S terminal, would indicate a bad switch.
 
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