clicking sound and battery question

jcworks

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I have a Toro MX5060, Kawasaki 23.5 hp. I went to check the battery after this cold spell. It wouldn't turn the motor over. I put battery charger on to charge as it read 9%. Battery is several years old. It kept clicking back to the "Check" red light. I fooled around with it awhile as the voltage was changing all over the place. Finally got it to quit changing voltage and left it on charge an hour or two. Tried starting again and got some rapid clicking sounds - I think that was from the relay switch next to the battery. I kicked up the amps to 8. It started reading 95% on the charger. I doubted that but the rapid clicking went away. Tried starting and it turned over only once. Then back to the rapid clicking. I don't want to buy new relay if its not necessary. Does anyone know from my description is it just time for a new battery? I don't want to buy a battery when it might be the relay. I don't know, thats why Im asking. I guess I could hook up a jumper cable from the truck to the mower and see if it started with that but not sure if thats kosher either.
 

Bertrrr

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It's the Battery, you can use jumper cables to prove it but 2 yrs old battery with Cold temps - this is the culprit
 

jcworks

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I think you are right Bertrr. I will check around for a new batter, That battery was about 6-7 years old anyway. And yes, the cold was severe. It was 10 degrees here in Alabama for 3 days. So that probably did it in. Thank you.
 

7394

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You can have auto parts load test it Free, but that old & the cold. battery Time.
 

Scrubcadet10

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You can have auto parts load test it Free, but that old & the cold. battery Time.
Yep, since the Christmas freeze here in Texas i've replaced 8 lawn tractor batteries. and a few automotive batteries too.
 

7394

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That freeze was a bad one here in TN also, a few neighbors down the way had water pipes freeze in their homes.
 

jcworks

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Well here's the final report on this battery. Before I went and spent $50-70 on a battery I had it tested at an auto parts store. They said it was good; just needed charging. That made no sense as I'd charged and charged it. So I made one last stab at this and cleaned off the cables with a wire brush and sandpaper EVEN THOUGH there was no corrosion or rusting, etc. With the battery cables disconnected I charged it on 2 amp till it reached 100%. It started....so I guess the issue was just not making good enough contact. Its been in the mower since 2016. Anyway, after brushing and sanding the cable contacts its all good now.
 

7394

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Well, cool. I would still think that battery by mow season could stand to be replaced.
 

Bertrrr

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After cleaning or installing any battery - I always spray with an anti corrosion spray - it coats all the connections and seems to help - rare to have a battery last as long as yours has - unless they "load tested" I'm betting its bad still -
HFT sells a load tester for about 20$ I think - might want to get one for later issues.
 

jcworks

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After cleaning or installing any battery - I always spray with an anti corrosion spray - it coats all the connections and seems to help - rare to have a battery last as long as yours has - unless they "load tested" I'm betting its bad still -
HFT sells a load tester for about 20$ I think - might want to get one for later issues.
Bertrr, I was wondering about that coating. I have some of that in the shop [battery protector, the red stuff]. Let me ask you a question about it. Should it be sprayed on there before you tighten down everything? I'm thinking probably not - instead, spray it on after its all tightened down. I really doubt they did a load test on it. This was done at the local auto parts store and the people in this store are not real energetic. You're probably right, but I'll just ride it out as long as it will go.
 
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