Cleaning carb , in Blue Gold Industrial cleaner.

[uwvid]

Hi.

I don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. I do have some Blue Gold Industrial cleaning liquid, which can also be used for baths/dips.
Can I soak the carb in this liquid/water mix at 60-70*C ?

Does anyone have some practical experience regarding ultrasonic bath and regular heated bath?

 

[Rivets]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner almost every day. After I looked up the cleaner you spoke of, I don’t see why it would not be worth a try. The only difference between a hot bath and ultrasonic bath, is the ultrasonic bath has the addition of vibration to the bath. Might take a bit longer.

 

[uwvid]

I cleaned it two times over in 4% BlueGold and water.
I had problems with engine only running with choke on. Now it runs without choke, but still won't run if all the way down on idle. I can decrease throttle to a certain point, but far from as low as I should be able to.

It's running really rich, and you can smell the fuel from the exhaust.

I've ordered a rebuild kit, maybe that can help. The needles are a bit corroded/worn. Anyone got some more points to check?

 

[Rivets]

How about giving us the engine numbers so we can see what you are talking about.

 

[uwvid]

Sorry,. Tecumseh TVXL 195 150236A on an Ariens RM828e

 

[Rivets]

I hope that you ordered this carb kit, 632347. This manual should also help, plus the procedure I use to set carbs.
https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Te...L840-HXL850-TVS840-TVXL840-ENGINES-694988.pdf

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Adjusting a carb[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]This is the procedure I always taught my students to adjust a carb with two fuel controlling needles.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]1. Start the engine and move the throttle control to top speed.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2. Adjust the high speed needle (this is the one under the float bowl) clockwise very slowly until the engine starts [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] to bog down.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]3. Back the needle out 1/8 turn, the engine should now run smoothly.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]4. Now move the throttle control down to idle. If the engine stalls out turn the idle speed screw in one full turn,[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] restart the engine and bring the throttle control down to idle. If the engine is running to fast, turn the speed [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] screw slowly out until the engine seem to want to die and then in 1/8 turn.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]5. Now with the engine running, adjust the idle needle out until the either gains in RPM's or starts to bog down. If[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] the engine gains in RPM's, continue to adjust out until the engine starts to bog down. At this time turn the [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] screw in 1/4 turn. Now the engine may be running to fast, so turn the idle speed screw out until you get an [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] RPM you like.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]6. Now you must repeat step 5. If the engine bogs down right away turn idle needle back in to your starting point [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] and go to step 7. If it speeds up, repeat step 5 again.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]7. Turn idle needle in until the engine bogs down and then out 1/8 turn.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]8. Now the engine should run smoothly at all speeds.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]9. To check, set the engine to idle, then quickly push the throttle control tohigh speed. If it dogs and does not [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot] come to speed, open the idle needle 1/8 turn and repeat.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]10. Set to go.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]There are 2 reasons I have it done this way is, first the high speed needle controls the fuel going to the low speed circuit and second is that the idle needle controls how much fuel is used when going from idle to high speed. You should also review the section in the manual I posted before starting this procedure.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

 

[uwvid]

I've ordered 632240. The rebuild kit number you mentioned had a spring on the float shaft, and my carb is without a spring.
Have to order kits overseas, so shipping hurts.
I tried making out the number on my carb, but the digits couldn't be read.

Granted my kit can be used, I will do the rebuild and then follow your handy step by step for carb adjustments, thanks for that.

The governor link has been disconnected for now as it was surging. The throttle handle is hooked up directly to the throttle lever. I was thinking I'm better off getting the engine running smooth at static loads and rpms, then adjust the governor if needed afterwards. Takes one element out of the equation for now. Am I far off here, should I hook up the governor straight away?

It's a really old machine that's been sitting for years without use. Hardly worth the time and money, but once I start, I just have to get it running. Learning a thing or two doesn't hurt.

(My carb has a choke lever and throttle lever at the top, mowing down you find the idle screw for physically stopping the throttle lever, next you find the idle jet screw, and at the bottom only one main jet screw)

 

[Rivets]

The carb on your engine needs the float return spring or it will run rich, because the float will open too soon.

 

[uwvid]

I see. I will get a hold of the spring.
It was missing when I disassembled the carb, so I guess someone must have lost it at some point.