Home

Export thread

Cheap and efficient home tire bead breaker

Jun 4, 2011#1

JDgreen

Rubber valve stem on my '04 Buick was leaking air, rather that drive 15 miles round trip and pay for gas and labor to install a $1 valve stem, I decided to do it myself.

First, mark the tire/rim so no rebalancing is necessary if you rotate the tire on the rim. Second, park your vehicle with a receiver hitch on a hard surface. I used an old hitch bar, a 2 foot long section of 2X4, and a 6 ton bottle jack to pop the bead loose as illustrated.

WARNING: Be sure the jack WILL NOT CONTACT THE RIM AT ANY TIME. Standing on the 2X4 while pumping the jack also adds more pressure to loosen the bead. Since this method only loosens one tire bead, after replacing the valve stem, I was easily able to reseat the bead using only a small electric air pump.

WARNING: DO NOT put fingers, toes, or other body parts near the rim while reinflating the tire and DO NOT EXCEED 40 PSI.

It's a simple as that. My cost: Half hour and a $1 valve stem. Their cost: $10 labor, $3 valve stem, plus your time and gas to go someplace to have it done.

Jun 4, 2011#2

bakerg

My dad use to break beads by running the front tire on the tractor over the tire.

Jun 4, 2011#3

JDgreen

bakerg said:
My dad use to break beads by running the front tire on the tractor over the tire.

I have read a number of ways to accomplish the bead breaking, among them is swinging a sledgehammer at the tire sidewall (and hope you don't damage the rim in the process) plus the method you outline, running a tire over the sidewall...I don't think that would work very well on a newer radial ply tire. And how do you even get the tractor front tire ON the sidewall in the first place??? If I tried that with my JD, it would simply push the tire aside instead of climbing on the sidewall. Another method would be to use a 4X4 post atop the sidewall and try driving up that like it was a ramp. I get the idea it would break the post before it popped the bead loose. Anybody care to comment?

Bakerg, not to be critical but I am sure the majority of the tires your dad loosened by driving on them were probably tube-type which are quite easy to remove from the bead compared to tubeless type.

Jun 4, 2011#4

RobertBrown

JDgreen said:
I Anybody care to comment?

I used the FEL to break the bead and remove the front tire off the rim of my F-150. Worked great.
Don't you have an FEL on your tractor JD?
The hard part is getting it to reseat and have marks line up perfectly. I use the starter fluid method. Don't like too, and it makes me very nervous, but I don't own the right tools for tire replacement.

Jun 4, 2011#5

bakerg

JDgreen said:
I have read a number of ways to accomplish the bead breaking, among them is swinging a sledgehammer at the tire sidewall (and hope you don't damage the rim in the process) plus the method you outline, running a tire over the sidewall...I don't think that would work very well on a newer radial ply tire. And how do you even get the tractor front tire ON the sidewall in the first place??? If I tried that with my JD, it would simply push the tire aside instead of climbing on the sidewall. Another method would be to use a 4X4 post atop the sidewall and try driving up that like it was a ramp. I get the idea it would break the post before it popped the bead loose. Anybody care to comment?

Bakerg, not to be critical but I am sure the majority of the tires your dad loosened by driving on them were probably tube-type which are quite easy to remove from the bead compared to tubeless type.

You are probably right about the tubes, use to change tires on wagons that way. The front tire on the tractor was high enough as the tractor rolled up on the tire without it moving away.:biggrin:

Jun 4, 2011#6

JDgreen

RobertBrown said:
I used the FEL to break the bead and remove the front tire off the rim of my F-150. Worked great.
Don't you have an FEL on your tractor JD?
The hard part is getting it to reseat and have marks line up perfectly. I use the starter fluid method. Don't like too, and it makes me very nervous, but I don't own the right tools for tire replacement.

Yes, I have an FEL, but don't like the idea of possibly bending a ($300 new, $150 used) chrome plated aluminum rim. Have read about the starter fluid reseating method, but a better way is to use a ratchet strap tiedown (one inch size) looped around the tire and compressing the tread enough with the strap to get the beads seated.

Jun 4, 2011#7

Bison

I fix or change all my own tires from big tractor rears to lawn tractor tires.
I made a slide hammer from a piece of 1" rod 5' long and a 4' piece of tubing .
Just 2 or 3 wacks usually unseats a car or truck tire no pain no strain and no worry for busting the rim.

Jun 5, 2011#8

N

noma

Hi JD Green

I like that one you had some good ingenuity there with that one i will have to try that one next time i need a tire change. I think what bakerg was talking about with the tractor front tire is one of the older farm tractors that went out in the farm field they where heavier tractor, not a lawn mower tractor.:smile:

Jun 5, 2011#9

JDgreen

Can anyone here tell me if this method would ease bead breaking....

Even with the valve core removed on a tire/wheel combo, pressure inside the tire is still equal to the pressure outside. Suppose you used a vacuum pump attached to the valve stem to remove what air was left in the tire, if you had a powerful enough pump would it gradually suck at least one of the tire beads off the rim? Or at least make it possible to push one off by just standing on the tire sidewall?

Stupid question maybe, but I wonder....

Jun 5, 2011#10

L

LandN

JDgreen said:
Can anyone here tell me if this method would ease bead breaking....

Even with the valve core removed on a tire/wheel combo, pressure inside the tire is still equal to the pressure outside. Suppose you used a vacuum pump attached to the valve stem to remove what air was left in the tire, if you had a powerful enough pump would it gradually suck at least one of the tire beads off the rim? Or at least make it possible to push one off by just standing on the tire sidewall?

Stupid question maybe, but I wonder....

hay jd, no q's are stupid, and it's good that you think outside the box.but i would lean towards the vacuum theory not working as you planned.your probably refering to a process similar to bringing a vehicle a/c system into a vacuum prior to refilling with freon. i think it would be difficult to control which bead you wanted to break down first. The amount of vacuum needed to pop the tire bead, i would think would be such a large capacity unit ..would it really be worth the purchase of a unit.the price you gave of 13.00 is actually cheap for a store to do the job.the suction may pull in the sidewalls somewhat but i seriously don't think it will pop a bead. i have had a lot of cases over the years where my commercial duty tire machine had problems with 'some' (not all) popping tire beads.The sidewalls on car tires is weaker(fewer plys) than the running surface,and therefore when running over them or crushing them with heavy weight, there is a risk of damaging the plys and in time "can" develep air pockets on the sidewalls and then the tire is ruined.this is why the tire machines have the bead breaker go right to the 'bead/rim seat' and not contact the sidewall at all when breaking the tire down........anyway did the valve stem leak at the base or the schrader valve? if the base was at fault, i hope you smoothed out the hole to prevent further occurence.that seems like a short time for a base to go bad.schrader valves, yes.(replacable).did you smooth out the rim surface when you had it apart.lot of times there is a build-up of rust/corrosion... nice job on your tire bead breaker:smile: just be carefull as you said, it can be risky.

Jun 5, 2011#11

BKBrown

I believe, as stated, that the sidewall being thinner than the bead that most any vacuum would not accomplish the task (good thinking though).

If you are going to use your method, I might use 2x6 and cut a curve to match your wheel diameter so pressure would be distributed more around the bead and less chance of damage to sidewall.

The ratchet strap method works well to reseat the beads. I personally would never try the "lighter fluid" method.

Jun 5, 2011#12

JDgreen

BKBrown said:
I believe, as stated, that the sidewall being thinner than the bead that most any vacuum would not accomplish the task (good thinking though).

If you are going to use your method, I might use 2x6 and cut a curve to match your wheel diameter so pressure would be distributed more around the bead and less chance of damage to sidewall.

The ratchet strap method works well to reseat the beads. I personally would never try the "lighter fluid" method.

Thanks, BK...EXCELLENT IDEA about cutting a 2X6 in a curve to better fit the bead area....you should have told me that before I started the original thread.....:laughing::laughing:

Then I could take credit for TWO original ideas not just one....:laughing::laughing:

Great news, eye has healed well, full vision restored, no need for BIG PRINT anymore....:thumbsup:

Jun 5, 2011#13

JDgreen

LandN said:
hay jd, no q's are stupid, and it's good that you think outside the box.but i would lean towards the vacuum theory not working as you planned.your probably refering to a process similar to bringing a vehicle a/c system into a vacuum prior to refilling with freon. i think it would be difficult to control which bead you wanted to break down first. The amount of vacuum needed to pop the tire bead, i would think would be such a large capacity unit ..would it really be worth the purchase of a unit.the price you gave of 13.00 is actually cheap for a store to do the job.the suction may pull in the sidewalls somewhat but i seriously don't think it will pop a bead. i have had a lot of cases over the years where my commercial duty tire machine had problems with 'some' (not all) popping tire beads.The sidewalls on car tires is weaker(fewer plys) than the running surface,and therefore when running over them or crushing them with heavy weight, there is a risk of damaging the plys and in time "can" develep air pockets on the sidewalls and then the tire is ruined.this is why the tire machines have the bead breaker go right to the 'bead/rim seat' and not contact the sidewall at all when breaking the tire down........anyway did the valve stem leak at the base or the schrader valve? if the base was at fault, i hope you smoothed out the hole to prevent further occurence.that seems like a short time for a base to go bad.schrader valves, yes.(replacable).did you smooth out the rim surface when you had it apart.lot of times there is a build-up of rust/corrosion... nice job on your tire bead breaker:smile: just be carefull as you said, it can be risky.

Thanks for input on the subject appreciate your feedback. Not sure what you mean about the valve stem but it was cracking down at the area it emerged from the rim...looked to me like whoever originally installed it new either failed to lube the stem, pulled it too hard, or maybe both. I did clean the rim area by the hole well, no corrosion, just dirt build up.

Jun 5, 2011#14

BKBrown

For some reason it is also easier for me to see in Blue and larger ! So, unless it annoys others, I'll probably keep it up !

JDgreen said:
Thanks, BK...
Great news, eye has healed well, full vision restored, no need for BIG PRINT anymore....:thumbsup:

Jun 5, 2011#15

S

SeniorCitizen

BKBrown said:
For some reason it is also easier for me to see in Blue and larger ! So, unless it annoys others, I'll probably keep it up !

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blue = less eye strain for me. I like it.

Jun 5, 2011#16

BKBrown

I WISH i COULD SET IT AS MY DEFAULT - IT'S PROBABLY THESE PROGRESSIVE LENSES AND THE BLUE IS EASIER ON MY EYES TOO ! :thumbsup:

SandburRanch said:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blue = less eye strain for me. I like it.

Jun 5, 2011#17

JDgreen

BKBrown said:
I WISH i COULD SET IT AS MY DEFAULT - IT'S PROBABLY THESE PROGRESSIVE LENSES AND THE BLUE IS EASIER ON MY EYES TOO ! :thumbsup:

Like it too...

I have a good friend who types his emails to everybody in all CAPS he says it's becuz most of the people he knows (LIKE ME LOL) have poor vision so he types all CAPS to make it easier for them.

BULL ROAR.

He is just to vain to wear his glasses and so dense upstairs he cannot figure out how to turn off his CAPS LOCK.....:laughing::laughing:

Jun 5, 2011#18

F

fastback

I tend to do my own tire changing. The bead was always the biggest problem. I used the bucket on my Ford 1900 with some success. Most recently I purchased an inexpensive manual unit from HF I also bought a new unit desighned for the smaller tires found on the front weels of garden tractors. They both save a lot of time and work well. THe larger unit will do tires up to 16 inches in diameter. I think I paid $39.00 on sale. I also use a ratchet strap to reseat the bead.

Jun 5, 2011#19

L

LandN

HI JD GREEN,sorry for the late response(been out all day)to your question of the stem on my earlier post....the schrader valve is the spring loaded 'insert pin' inside of the actual valve stem.which is replacable.

Jun 6, 2011#20

JDgreen

LandN said:
HI JD GREEN,sorry for the late response(been out all day)to your question of the stem on my earlier post....the schrader valve is the spring loaded 'insert pin' inside of the actual valve stem.which is replacable.

Thanks for clarification, thought you meant that little brass and rubber valve CORE, when I have a tire leak I akways hope THOSE are the cause, but they never seem to be...the easiest way to fix a tire leak and they never seem to be the cause...

Jun 14, 2011#21

wjjones

JDgreen said:
Rubber valve stem on my '04 Buick was leaking air, rather that drive 15 miles round trip and pay for gas and labor to install a $1 valve stem, I decided to do it myself.

First, mark the tire/rim so no rebalancing is necessary if you rotate the tire on the rim. Second, park your vehicle with a receiver hitch on a hard surface. I used an old hitch bar, a 2 foot long section of 2X4, and a 6 ton bottle jack to pop the bead loose as illustrated.

WARNING: Be sure the jack WILL NOT CONTACT THE RIM AT ANY TIME. Standing on the 2X4 while pumping the jack also adds more pressure to loosen the bead. Since this method only loosens one tire bead, after replacing the valve stem, I was easily able to reseat the bead using only a small electric air pump.

WARNING: DO NOT put fingers, toes, or other body parts near the rim while reinflating the tire and DO NOT EXCEED 40 PSI.

It's a simple as that. My cost: Half hour and a $1 valve stem. Their cost: $10 labor, $3 valve stem, plus your time and gas to go someplace to have it done.

I have done this manytimes it does work well just takes a few mins...but it saves time, and $$$. You just have to be careful not to bend the wheel..:smile:

Jan 9, 2012#22

PauttyBrailla

thank you

Terrific
Your site is very helpful...
Thanks...

Jan 9, 2012#23

M

Mower manic

Re: thank you

PauttyBrailla said:
Terrific
Your site is very helpful...
Thanks...

Why your quite welcome Pautty and thank you for stopping by.:thumbsup:

Jan 10, 2012#24

jmurray01

Re: thank you

Mower manic said:
Why your quite welcome Pautty and thank you for stopping by.:thumbsup:

You do realise he is a troll don't you ?

Jan 11, 2012#25

M

Mower manic

Re: thank you

jmurray01 said:
You do realise he is a troll don't you ?

What do you think?

Jan 11, 2012#26

K

KennyV

Re: thank you

Mower manic said:
What do you think?

I caught the inference with the under scored & Bold "and thank you for stopping by.":laughing:
... Too funny... :smile:KennyV

Jan 12, 2012#27

jmurray01

Re: thank you

KennyV said:
I caught the inference with the under scored & Bold "and thank you for stopping by.":laughing:
... Too funny... :smile:KennyV

You're too darn intelligent for me Kenny.

Jan 12, 2012#28

K

KennyV

Re: thank you

jmurray01 said:
You're too darn intelligent for me Kenny.

I seriously Doubt that.....
But I definitely enjoy subtle cynicism that can be conveyed with the written word:biggrin:...
Can be a bit harder to detect with spoken words, because of different dialects... And is usually completely lost in a transcribed narration... :smile:KennyV

Home

Export thread

Cheap and efficient home tire bead breaker

Attachments

Footer Links 1

Footer Links 2