CH23S Governor

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Threads
387
Messages
2,956
CH23S
Spec: 76510

Put it in the WOT position then back off, the governor keeps it at WOT. But I can manually move the gov arm to low idle, and it'll stay at low idle.

The governor problems I've had in the passed, if the gov. was bad, the engine would either stay at WOT or would go right back to WOT.
The linkage is free, and easily moves with just a finger.

I've sprayed some WD40 around the linkage and the governor rod, let it sit for about 10 minutes and blew it all clean with compressed air.
Commercial customer says he hasn't messed with it, so I'm thinking it's just a spring missing, or has been put in the wrong hole?
Or am I completely wrong about that?
 

ILENGINE

Lawn Pro
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
39
Messages
9,865
If the engine is running at idle. and you manually move the throttle linkage toward full throttle at the carb, does it give you resistance trying to slow back down or acts like nothing is there.
 

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Threads
387
Messages
2,956
If the engine is running at idle. and you manually move the throttle linkage toward full throttle at the carb, does it give you resistance trying to slow back down or acts like nothing is there.

Actually, the longer it idles, the RPM's slowly creep higher.
 

ILENGINE

Lawn Pro
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
39
Messages
9,865
I would be leaning toward a faulty governor. Saw a similar issue with a MTD engine a couple years ago that didn't matter what you did including disconnect the governor spring would not idle below 3000 rpm. But if you went from idle to full speed would run at 3650 according to my tach.
 

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Threads
387
Messages
2,956
I would be leaning toward a faulty governor. Saw a similar issue with a MTD engine a couple years ago that didn't matter what you did including disconnect the governor spring would not idle below 3000 rpm. But if you went from idle to full speed would run at 3650 according to my tach.

This one will idle low. And pretty much stay there. The increases in RPM's is very slow.


But amidst all this governor issue, I think it's developed a carb issue. Fuel pump is pumping. But the engine will now only run long enough to use up what gas is in the bowl. I don't think this is related because it ran fine, except for the over revving, when it came in.

I can see fuel pumping in from the top jet for a couple of seconds. Then it stops. Then the engine dies.
 
Last edited:

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Threads
387
Messages
2,956
OK, now back to the governor problem. The carb issue turned out to be a bad solenoid. So I just snipped the end of it off. And it's working fine.

The governor, I put a light spring to pull the governor arm back to low idle. That seemed to solved at least that problem. But now, I'm thinking @ILENGINE is correct about their being a governor failure. Because now, WOT is waaaaaay too high. Reading well into the 4000's when I put my RPM gauge on it. Trying to set the throttle cable didn't work either.
 
Last edited:

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Threads
387
Messages
2,956
Scratch this one. I told the customer that I thought it might be the governor. But wasn't sure. And to get a 2nd opinion from the other shop.
 

Hammermechanicman

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jan 10, 2020
Threads
49
Messages
3,485
To check and see if the govenor gear is working you can disconnect the linkage between the govenor lever and the carb butterfly. Disconnect control linkage from govenor lever. Hook up a light spring to hold the carb butterfly closed. Start engine and hold govenor arm in WOT position and slowly move butterfly to increase engine speed. You should feel the govenor lever try to push back proportionally to the engine speed. If it doesn't then bad govenor in the engine.
 
Top