Had a customer bring in a mower and said it has a new starter new battery new spark plug and it still won't start. Figure out what was wrong with it. Some people just don't need tools. I will give you a clue it is not electrical. Solenoid is clicking but engine will not turn over.
From the information you provided the person who makes the correct diagnosis should go by a dozen lottery tickets, because their answer is only a guess. I’ll ask you this question. “Why do people call me stupid?” I’ve got a college degree, attended more update schools than I can count, taught for 34+ years, better half and I have a retirement income of $5000+ per month and getup each morning looking for work, plus happy as a clam. Hint, has something to do with my past.
If you can answer the OP’s question, you’ll get this one also.
My two guesses are either no oil in the engine and is locked up or the mower is out of gas.
#4
Hammermechanicman
I'll play.
Stripped flywheel ring gear
Engine seized
Starter mounted wrong
Hydrolocked
Nuts from squirrels blocking flywheel from turning (I had that one)
You say "not electrical" so assume starter is getting power.
You say "engine won't turn over" so assume engine is not rotating when power is applied to the starter.
Hammermech nailed it was hydraulic locked. crank case full of gas and cylinder as well. Hate those Niki carbs parts to fix it within $7.00 of price of new carb.
Hammermech nailed it was hydraulic locked. crank case full of gas and cylinder as well. Hate those Niki carbs parts to fix it within $7.00 of price of new carb.
Just can't see why everyone hate the Nikki carbs. They are easily repaired. 99% all that is a bowl gasket set and a good USC cleaning. Seldom ever need a needle valve. Even when the fuel solenoid is stuck it is a simple USC cleaning. Now there are worst cases to be had as is with all carbs.
It is when you need a fuel bowl it gets out of hand but I am still sitting on 5 ea 798778 fuel bowls with solenoids for the dual barrel carbs that I paid only $30 each for. I even got 3 ea of the 698783 fuel bowl for singles that all you got to do is drill and tap @M8-100 for the fuel solenoids.
Now these dual barrel fuel bowl kits are current priced very high so I can make a killing on them when I sell them @ $135.00 ea. Also their PN was superseded to the fuel solenoid PN; hence, the note of uses is the same PN. Besides I can be just as greedy as the next fellow when using price files.
I now seldom order a Briggs Nikki carb repair kit as they are over priced just because want to include the needle valve.
Besides if you are in the repair business you should be thankful for the business and not complaining about it. Just learn how to repair them properly. Besides with E15 becoming available we will have more nightmares of the horizon. I just got in my first victim this week and it had to be a two cycle carb. New metering diaphragm just install last month already destroyed along with the main nozzle check valve. New carb is in order to repair it and telling the customer to switch to pure gas. Now if he only would test the fuel before use would help as not all stations are switching to E15 yet. No problems with E10 currently. Manufactures will have to come more ethanol resistant components.
Oh I'm sorry I should have said the crank case is full of gas. That would have told you the cylinder was as well. There was nothing condecending about my post. It was ment to be just a game if you don't want to play don't. Hammermech had no problem with it.
Oh I'm sorry I should have said the crank case is full of gas. That would have told you the cylinder was as well. There was nothing condecending about my post. It was ment to be just a game if you don't want to play don't. Hammermech had no problem with it.