Cannot Find Correct Engine Intake Manifold

Murray40Rider

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Hello,
B&S engine 21B807-0239E1 041025ZA, with Nikki Carb 699475-G02525.
Per engine specs/diagrams = Carb 593433 before codate 08110600, Engine Intake Manifold 592845.
Engine Intake Manifold 592845 fitment good with carb 699475.
EXCEPT carb holes do not have threaded sleeve inserts for stud 690227 (codate before 111202). Holes are not threaded and smaller than stud diameter.
Inserted pics for reference.
Please help with part number for older manifold with threaded insert for stud.
Thanks for your time.
Murray40Rider
 

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  • M40 Carb EngineIntakeManifold2.JPG
    M40 Carb EngineIntakeManifold2.JPG
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Scrubcadet10

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where did you buy it from?
same part number here: has the sleeves installed.
1611368856681.png
 

StarTech

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where did you buy it from?
same part number here: has the sleeves installed.
View attachment 55299
Scrub that not the end the OP referring to as the one you are seeing is the cylinder head side. The OP is referring to the carb side.

Briggs has superseded the old part to this newer part that uses the self tapping studs. Briggs should noted that new studs were need if used on older equipment but they had been too busy with the bankruptcy. It isn't the first time they screwed up either.

Two options here:
  • Order the self tapping studs. I think the 591260 studs are correct stud PN.
  • or Press out the old rivit nuts, drill out the new part to where the rivet nuts can pressed in.
Personally I would just go with the self tappers myself. Notice the coarse threading.
B1591260.png
 

Murray40Rider

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where did you buy it from?
same part number here: has the sleeves installed.
View attachment 55299
Hi, Thanks for responding. Bought new part from Amazon-B&S part. Part in your pic looks like what I have now. The end with sleeves (red ring seal) is attached to engine. Other end attaches to carb with studs. Right? Those holes are my problem.
 

Murray40Rider

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Scrub that not the end the OP referring to as the one you are seeing is the cylinder head side. The OP is referring to the carb side.

Briggs has superseded the old part to this newer part that uses the self tapping studs. Briggs should noted that new studs were need if used on older equipment but they had been too busy with the bankruptcy. It isn't the first time they screwed up either.

Two options here:
  • Order the self tapping studs. I think the 591260 studs are correct stud PN.
  • or Press out the old rivit nuts, drill out the new part to where the rivet nuts can pressed in.
Personally I would just go with the self tappers myself. Notice the coarse threading.
View attachment 55301
Scrub that not the end the OP referring to as the one you are seeing is the cylinder head side. The OP is referring to the carb side.

Briggs has superseded the old part to this newer part that uses the self tapping studs. Briggs should noted that new studs were need if used on older equipment but they had been too busy with the bankruptcy. It isn't the first time they screwed up either.

Two options here:
  • Order the self tapping studs. I think the 591260 studs are correct stud PN.
  • or Press out the old rivit nuts, drill out the new part to where the rivet nuts can pressed in.
Personally I would just go with the self tappers myself. Notice the coarse threading.
View attachment 55301
Hi Star Tech, Thanks for help. Wish I knew how to find info about Briggs superseding this part??
Your right. Briggs should have noted but maybe I did not shop in right place .
Old manifold still in use. Drilling out "rivit nuts" not an option at this time. Thanks.
Self tapping studs? Hmmm. Wonder if vibration/age would loosen metal to plastic? Maybe thread locker? Will ponder on this.
Another option, a long bolt/nut running thru all parts or threaded rod with nut at each end?
Still, would prefer to find original manifold as I am building a spare carb assembly.
Thanks again for your help.
 

StarTech

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Hi Star Tech, Thanks for help. Wish I knew how to find info about Briggs superseding this part??
Your right. Briggs should have noted but maybe I did not shop in right place .
Old manifold still in use. Drilling out "rivit nuts" not an option at this time. Thanks.
Self tapping studs? Hmmm. Wonder if vibration/age would loosen metal to plastic? Maybe thread locker? Will ponder on this.
Another option, a long bolt/nut running thru all parts or threaded rod with nut at each end?
Still, would prefer to find original manifold as I am building a spare carb assembly.
Thanks again for your help.
I haven't seen a problem with loosening on any of the engines using the new style of mounting.

Briggs has been busy updating IPLs so things like part numbers are being changed without notes. On the IPL for your engine they don't list the older style PN anywhere in the downloadable IPLs from the Briggs Power Portal which is the dealers website. I can only assume that the part was changed back in 2011 as that is the time noted on the studs.

As for the above manifold here is a list of previous PNs that are listed in the last price file download to my system from Power Distributors.
592845 prev PNs.JPG
 

Murray40Rider

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I haven't seen a problem with loosening on any of the engines using the new style of mounting.

Briggs has been busy updating IPLs so things like part numbers are being changed without notes. On the IPL for your engine they don't list the older style PN anywhere in the downloadable IPLs from the Briggs Power Portal which is the dealers website. I can only assume that the part was changed back in 2011 as that is the time noted on the studs.

As for the above manifold here is a list of previous PNs that are listed in the last price file download to my system from Power Distributors.
View attachment 55303
THANKS. YOU'RE GREAT.
 
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