Briggs 26hp vTwin, replaced stator, blown after 15 min of mowing.

jcragle

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  • / Briggs 26hp vTwin, replaced stator, blown after 15 min of mowing.
First thank you for helping out. I have a 26hp vTwin that had a blown stator, teenager jumped the fused link trying to get it to run. I have traced wires and can see no burns / shorts, the mower was for sure jump started off a car battery for sure. I did not replace the regulator, only the stator. In testing all circuits seem fine, fuel cut off clicks and works, the electric clutch clicks and functions. I replaced the stator and the mower started up and ran wonderful. Started mowing and after about 15 min the new stator was fried after increasing RPM to mow some very over grown grass. Questions are many, the fuse placed back in I know now was a 25 not a 20, not sure if that would have saved the stator or not? Would a defective regulator blow stator? I assume so but any comments on bench testing would help here. Would a faulty electric clutch possible draw more and or short at higher RPM ? I plan on buying another stator and a new regulator, but wanted to get a feeler out on tasks I should do for testing, this is all a learning process / teaching my boys also, just want to try and keep the cost of education down.

Thank you in advance.
~john
 

ILENGINE

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  • / Briggs 26hp vTwin, replaced stator, blown after 15 min of mowing.
A short could overload the stator and/or regulator and cook it. I have personally had one in the shop a few years ago where a shorted regulator cooked a new stator just as your has,

Seems like I confirmed the shorted regulator by checking for continuity between the housing of the regulator and the AC charge wires that would connect to the stator harness.
 

jcragle

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  • / Briggs 26hp vTwin, replaced stator, blown after 15 min of mowing.
Have tested the regulator and there is no continuity between the case and any of the wires. Started poking around testing continuity again, I had continuity on the fuel solenoid power to the block. Needless to say after removing some connection in the harness I traced this to the switch blue wire "A1" , the switch just setting there is in the run on position, turn back to off get a few beeps from meter, now back to on run no continuity, switch it back to the Reverse Key Position and there is continuity. Now trying to figure out if what is making that happen, thinking we might have a fried Ign. Switch but need to figure out what the Run Reverse is switching also.

~john
 
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