Just bought a 2006 z425 John Deere 48 inch zero turn mower for $1,500. They have 625 hours on the engine. It's not burning oil or smoking, but I'm thinking that 625 hours is probably getting to the end? So should I wait until it breaks or should I rebuild it? How much would it cost to have someone rebuild it? I was born in a mechanic machinist shop and I rebuilt a couple small engines.. but that was 30 years ago... And I don't have some of the tools... Lol
23hp Briggs v-twin 625 hours... Rebuild?
- Thread starter rubantin
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Is this a Intek V twin or the Vanguard V twin. In the former than you should be good for a few more hours. Some of those will go 800+ hours with proper maintenance. If the Vanguard that engine should go a couple thousand.
Either way you will not find a reparable mower shop that will rebuild either one of those engine due to not being cost effective, and in some cases really isn't much cheaper than replacement of the engine. I don't overhaul engines that can be replaced for less than $2500 because a proper overhaul that requires machine shop work and cylinder boring will cost $1200-1500 after parts and labor
Either way you will not find a reparable mower shop that will rebuild either one of those engine due to not being cost effective, and in some cases really isn't much cheaper than replacement of the engine. I don't overhaul engines that can be replaced for less than $2500 because a proper overhaul that requires machine shop work and cylinder boring will cost $1200-1500 after parts and labor
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IL, Is quite right about the costs and skills needed. Most shops don't even have the necessary equipment or the skills to do the overhaul nowadays. If you do find a mechanic that has the tools the costs alone make it more viable to just replace the engine especially if a promo engine is available.
Note: it doesn't machine shop too resize the cylinders per say if the mechanic has the proper ridge hone and reamers on hand; although, most even they will not turn a crankshaft journal opting instead of just replacing the crankshaft.
The only rebuilds that I do now is for myself as once labor is added it gets costly.
Note: it doesn't machine shop too resize the cylinders per say if the mechanic has the proper ridge hone and reamers on hand; although, most even they will not turn a crankshaft journal opting instead of just replacing the crankshaft.
The only rebuilds that I do now is for myself as once labor is added it gets costly.
Are you using a NASCAR team for rebuilds? Or is it 2021 now and prices have gone up? Crazy,,,, It's a stinking mower engine LOL. Toss in some Restore and some Slick 50 and you are good to go. Little Motor Honey to slick her up LOL.
slomo
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Slomo, Apparently you are one those hacks that I had to clean up afterwords. What you are suggest just masks to true problem.Just like those that believes duct tape and JB Weld fixes everything.
But even small engine requires proper rebuilds by a professional. An engine nursed to it ultimate death is NOT a proper way to do repairs especially when a simple rigid honing is require so the taper and oval is removed. Bot of there are so called mechanic that just use flex hone to just break the glaze and never brother to actually check the cylinder specs. Most people goes to them because they are so cheap but of the customer get what he pays for too. Crappy work equals crappy repairs.
Yes spending $400+ in parts alone on the $800 is not worth it unless you are doing the repairs for yourself.
Let you need to oversize the piston and rigs in a 445577-6187-G5. They list for $105+ for one and you need two of them. And you are already half to the $400 and you still need all the gaskets and any other worn parts.
But even small engine requires proper rebuilds by a professional. An engine nursed to it ultimate death is NOT a proper way to do repairs especially when a simple rigid honing is require so the taper and oval is removed. Bot of there are so called mechanic that just use flex hone to just break the glaze and never brother to actually check the cylinder specs. Most people goes to them because they are so cheap but of the customer get what he pays for too. Crappy work equals crappy repairs.
Yes spending $400+ in parts alone on the $800 is not worth it unless you are doing the repairs for yourself.
Let you need to oversize the piston and rigs in a 445577-6187-G5. They list for $105+ for one and you need two of them. And you are already half to the $400 and you still need all the gaskets and any other worn parts.
Don’t know where you guys go for cutting and boring. The last one I sent out last October to be resized cost me $300. That was for two rebores .010” over, two heads resurfaced, and 2 crank journals cut .010 undersized. Been going to the same shop since the 80’s and only time I had a problem was when the kid in the shop didn’t wash it up properly. Only lasted 10 hours. Yes, being a mean old fart, with good rep, has its advantages.
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Personally I do the work in house when comes to oversizing the piston bores using one of the below hones and a 1/2" low speed drill (under 300 rpm).
15000 Small Cylinder Hone Full 2" to 7" Range (50.8 - 177.8mm).
16000 Small Cylinder Hone. For 1 3/4" to 2" Range (44.5 mm to 69.9 mm)
Of course you must the correct stones and racks too.
My local machine shop that bores cylinders charges $100/cylinder. So you are not out of line as far as pricing. The days of $25 cylinder boring are over.
The last 6 overhauls had over .010 wear before boring which had to be bored .020 over.
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I still have rigid hones when I’m deglazing a cylinder but found it cheaper to send rebores out. I get about one total rebuild about once a year. Dealers around here call me, because they don’t want to tie up their young guys, who have very little experience with rebuilding. Win, win for everyone, but most of the time I must inform them, cost is not worth it. Biggest problem I have is finding good replacement parts, especially for the old Wisconsin and Onan engines.